Re-using ceramic tiles

[Invisible Man]

Our kitchen is fully tiled including windowsill etc.

Tiles are Pilkingon, a little under 200mm square and about 6mm thick. They appear to be glazed gloss ceramic with an indented diamond pattern.

They appear to be obsolete.

No idea how they are fixed.

We want to make some changes to the kitchen. We need a few tiles for areas that were not previously tiled but do not need at least 30 of the tiles that are currently in place.

Anyone know if there is any chance of getting tiles off in one piece so they can be re-used? Photo at:

[Invisible Man]

PS. Needless to say if anyone knows where I can find some.....

[RW]

His method was to hire a "Reciprocating Saw" and slowly cut down behind individual tiles to clear the adhesive. Diamond edged blades were what he used.

Mind you.......The tiles being removed in a 10ft square bathroom had actual

9ct gold diamond shape edge inlays and were being replaced because the Arab lady "Didn't like the gold effect and wanted plain whte" 2 years after their installation ! Only £120 a tile FFS! You can work out what the entire room cost fully tiled at 12" x 9" tiles if you like

[meow2222]

I've found that sometimes removing the grout is enough to cause tiles to come loose - but often not of course.

NT

[Stuart Noble]

They always come off easily when you're going to dump them. IME the adhesive sticks to the tile better than the wall so, if you don't mind damaging the plaster a bit, they should come off intact. Leave them overnight in a bucket of soapy water to get the adhesive off.

[gilli]

If you are patient enough, they will nearly fall off.. might need a bit of prying to shorten the process...obviously if you are doing a whole field of tiles, you might have to break the first one to get prying access. I pried with a stiff scraper knife to spread the force...just gently while continuing the heating of the tile...put something soft below to let the tile fall on (or grab with a pair of pliers so it does not break,) then scrape the adhesive off before it cools(both on tile and wall area )

I suggest good ventilation as fumes from softening adhesive might not be nice.

Results vary depending on the original adhesive, but it is worth a try. I have had varying success, but it always works on a large percentage of the tiles. In a flat I had once, where the neighbours were very sensitive to noise, I even used a torch to do the entire kitchen ...obviously hotter than the heat gun, but more hazardous...but quieter...

good luck. David G

[Matty F]

Is that right? I have some very expensive tiles here with adhesive on. I'll do an experiment tonight.

[Dave Liquorice]

Depends on the adhesive, ordinary stuff will soften if left in water water proof stuff as one might use in a bathroom won't...

[Stuart Noble]

Yes, hot water and washing up liquid.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Depends on the type. Common tile adhesive (water resistant) will soften eventually. Mortar based (waterproof) won't.

[Andy Dingley]

Sometimes. Not usually for good jobs in bathrooms though, as it depends on the adhesive / grout used. Epoxy grouts can be really awkward to get off.

If it didn't work, do it again with hydrochloric acid (muriatic / brick acid / wall acid from a builder's merchant). Don't over-soak in acid though, as it can highlight any damage to the glazed front surface.

A good tool for sawing tiles off walls in a fit state to re-apply them is the Fein Mutleymaster with a carbide blade, but I hesitate to start _that_ thread again. 8-)

[Matty F]

After a day's soaking, the adhesive is slighly softer but not much. It's grey and looks like cement. When it was taken off the wall it took the wallboard off with it. Not to worry, there are plenty of tiles with a soft white adhesive instead.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If they were mounted on plasterboard I doubt it is mortar so should soften enough to remove.