Problem with Wickes self install front door

[Steve]

I have a wickes self install PVC front door, complete with frame. It has 4 point high security locking system.

It has now deteriorated to the point where when turning the handle to open the door, the latch is not moving fully out of the keep.

If I use a key in the lock, the latch will retract fully, allowing the door to open smoothly.

Is there anything I can do myself to effect a repair?

If I remove the screws to remove the locking cams will I get any nasty surprises, like springs jumping out?

Hope this makes sense to someone.

Any advice gratefully accepted.

Steve..

[Brad J]

Without being able to see the door, you may be able to cure it bey:

a) grinding a bit off the end of the bit that goes in.

or

b) taking the latch/lock apart and making sure it was put together corectly.

A friend of mine said she cued that exact same problem by lubricating the mechanism with vaseline, but I don;t understand how or why.

I've had a vew problems with Wikes products myself. They are cheap but not always very reliable.

Brad J

[Ziggur]

I am not familiar with this product but the locking mechanism is probably a standard configuration:

A Slam Latch - like your internal doors - operated by the handle.

A Mortice Deadlock - a rectangular pin - operated by the key.

Some Roller Cams - round pins which move vertically into the keeps on the jamb - operated by the handle.

The slam latch and the deadlock might benefit from a squirt of WD40. The roller cams are often adjustable by turning the screw in the end of each cam. You may also be able to adjust the position of the keeps as the screw holes are often slots.

HTH

[Mortimer]

Dont know if this is relevant. I had a similar problem with an internal door, it was a simple mechanism - when the handle was pushed down, this turned a square shaft which connected the handles each side and as the shaft turned it made the latch move into the door. The shaft or part of the latch had worn with use so the latch only moved about 3/4 of its full travel and hence kept catching the plate on the frame. I took it apart and was able to reverse something inside so it was not turning on a worn part and it was cured. Sorry this is a bit vague but was a while ago. Your door sounds a bit more complex but if you dismantle it carefully you should be OK and you never know it may be a similar problem.

[Steve]

I don't think grinding part of the latch away is an option, as the latch does not move very far with just the handle, so I would need to almost grind all of it away.

It does retract fully when turning the key however.

I have never seen the inside of these locks before so am concerned that if I was to remove the locking mechanism from the door to see what is wrong, could there be some springs ready to explode out?

It must be a straight forward 4 point locking system as used on many doors these days.

Steve..

[Ziggur]

Can't guarantee anything, but it would be an unusual fitting that exploded and bounced springs around.

You can safely remove the handles and the spindle to check for wear.

You can remove the locking gear. It will be a self-contained, one-piece unit without any renegade jumpy bits :)

Have a go, it'll be OK. Far more entertaining than a jigsaw puzzle or the TV.

[Steve]

The real annoying thing about this is that the door has only been in place for about 5 months. It is out of guarantee though, as I purchased it well over a year ago, and due to illness, could not fit it until earlier this year.

I will risk tremoving the mechanism and see if I can do anything.

Steve..

[Vista]

I had these exact symptoms with 2 staybrite doors, it cant be wear at this age so should also be just an adjustment. After removing the screws and strip from the lock side the barrel is removed by inserting the key and wiggling it about an 8th turn each way whilst pushing it out. Remove the bolts that secure the handles and the spindle, and the mortice lock will come out. Hopefully pushing in the latch will reveal an adjuster screw at the back. Tighten this up fully and reasembly is the reverse of the above. Dont force the strip flush when reatatching, screw it to the door at the lock first, gently pushing it on as you wiggle the handle will have it snap in place. With the shoot bolts/ hooks I attatch them to the mechanism on the back of the strip then push them into their mortices.

With the first dooe I did it took an hour or so after I had spent days futiiley trying to find a replacement fo the 10 year old lock, the second was 15 minutes with an electric screwdriver.

Vista I want pizza

[Steve]

I took off the locking mechanism and it's impossible to see what is wrong. The unit cannot be opened. I went to my local locksmith and asked the person who was minding the shop could she find out what the likely cost of s replacement was. She rand someone and was told around £140 - £150.

I was flabbergasted.

I cannot believe that it will cost that much to replace the unit. It is only a small part of the door.

There must be a cheaper place?

Any suggestions?

Steve..

[Steve]

Thanks for that info.

Yes, I did notice a screw on the latch when I stripped it down. It was the only thing that could be adjusted on the lock.

I did try the screw and it was solid, but I will try again.

If this is the reason for my problem, I cannot understand why turning the key retracts the latch fully, but the handle only slightly retracts it.

I will see what I can do.

Steve..