Methods of cooling a room

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read the site some more
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wrote in message

So that means you haven't looked all over the institutions site then.
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So that means you don't understand what a citation is then.
Julian
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Julian Fowler
julian (at) bellevue-barn (dot) org (dot) uk
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You don't get it, do you ... you cited *a specific paper*, not the whole site. You've only started referring to the whole site when people started pointing out the erroneous conclusions that you'd drawn from your original citation.
How often, BTW, do you imagine that people thinking about a/c issues in Florida refer to the material on insulation published by BRE?
Julian
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Julian Fowler
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As we know little about a/c compared to the USA, I don't think they would look at BRE. I know US architects and institutions look at BRE re: many matters.
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Let me try this one more time: the executive summary of the paper you cited does not support the conclusions that you claimed. If the body of the paper contains different (and conflicting) information then it is *bad* research, and neither the paper nor the summary are worth reading. You cannot infer from modest claims about the effectiveness of radiant materials in the attics of Florida homes with shingle roof coverings that the same approach would be equally effective in reducing the internal temperature of a typical UK house, with stone or tile roof covering (which in many cases will not be directly exposed in the roof void), in different climactic conditions.
As others have pointed out, the amount of *radiant* heat produced by the underside of a typical roof in this country is negligible.
Julian
Julian
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Did you ever see "One Flew over a Cuckoo's Nest"??
I'm wondering whether you model yourself on Jack Nicholson.....
.andy
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wrote:

No.
Who is he? Does he wear CAT boot like you?
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wrote:

He can't do, at least most people accepted that Jack has always had a value of some sort!
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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IMM wrote:

That would be partially IR translucent wooden shingles then... not that common on UK houses!
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See me after school you egregious puppy!
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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Our dining room faces due south and there's a large bay windo which lets all the sun in. It's horrible.
The answer is to draw the curtains on the south side of the house. The rest of the house isn't a problem.
We open windows of course to catch whatever breath of moving air there is. But covering windows seems to be the most effective solution and costs nothing. If you have curtains ... in the caravan we lower the venetian blinds.
Mary
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Generally, I agree...but as for the TV...just bought a 14 inch (OK, not big) with a standby *consumption* (OK, mostly heat) of 2.9 watts. Not really a lirtle less than a few hundred...! Even multiplying for a decent sized TV, I can't see it reaching ewven 50 watts.
Computer monitors...easy to switch off, a major power hig, and the bit that actually wears out a decent amount when on, not to mention the largest fire risk in a PC...turn that off always when not using. Easier and quicker (and thus more likely to be done) than the PC itself. And of course engage power saving on the PC but don't allow the hard disk to spin down.

Yes, very much the case here yesterday. North-east Kent coast, south westerly wind...very hot! However, today it was the opposite. Noth westerly wind, off the sea, cooler than inside...

Yup. Just bought a big blind for a big, bare window today! But it was too hot to fit it....
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David Hearn wrote:

Depends on what you mean by noisy... the mono block units are noisy as in the noise of a fridge freezer combined with a large fan - i.e. irritation if you are trying to watch TV or sleep - but not as loud as a vacuum cleaner!

Some people find that the small "personal" evaporative coolers do work a bit - the evaporation effect will cool the air they blow out at you a little bit - and the amount of moisture they contribute to a room is relatively small once it has a chance to diffuse within the room (they only consume a cup of water a day). The larger "room sized" evaporative coolers are on a hiding to nothing in our climate however.

This is correct.

Chances are it would help your bodies natural cooling mechanism to work more effectively. There would also be a side effect benefit in that they presumably include a fan to move air through them which would help keep the air moving in the room a bit.
In scientific terms however the de-humidifier is likely to raise the room temperature by an amount equal to its power dissipation. This will offset or even counteract the benefits.

They can claim to reduce the temperature since if you measure the air output temp it will be colder since you have extracted some heat from it to help vaporise the water. Alas its a bit like wind chill - the thermometer does not tell the whole story!

All the usual things... insulation, increasing shade - plants, trees, creepers etc. Reducing solar radiation absorbtion with blinds or solar window film, forced air ventilation (fans etc). Turning off heat sources.

You can get portable split units - you hang the condenser outside the window and its connected to the air handler inside via an "umbilical". Not that cheap mind:
http://www.coolbuys.co.uk/mall/AirConditioningSales/products/product-752461.stm
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NOT a good idea if you value your property. Depends on the tree of course, but never plant any too close to the house. Your foundations are valuable. You can do yourself considerably more financial harm than you would ever expend air-conditioning the entire house, the garage, the garden shed, the Wendy House and the dog kennel.

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Simon Gardner wrote:

Good point! Carefull selection and placement is obviously vital! Perhaps you should drop seeds in the neighbours garden so that it't not your insurance that cops it when the house falls over! ;-)
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Thermal shutters work very well.

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I've only just caught up with this thread because on Friday we went off and only got back last night.
We had the best two night's sleep - and days working too - we've had for weeks, despite sleeping on a hard earth floor.
We were at Bede's World, Jarrow (I can thoroughly recommend it) and living in a Dark Age long house.
The floor, as I said, is beaten earth. There were two ill fitting doors on the long walls, almost opposite each other.
Two unglazed and high windows could be shuttered but we didn't.
The roof was thickly thatched and overhanging, the ceiling high.
The building was timber framed, the infill was thick daub.
It was cool, delightfully cool. Even during the day when I was working over a charcoal firepot I was cooler than when I went into the sun. The hens stayed in the building rather than go outside. Spouse worked outside but under the shade of the eaves.
On Sunday morning we had very heavy rain and a long thunderstorm but I reckon (didn't measure it) that the temperature indoors stayed more or less the same as the rest of the time. The butter didn't melt, the milk didn't sour, the fruit and vegetables didn't wilt, we didn't sweat.
We were sorry to come home.
Mary
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Mary,
Simple. Insulation and ventilation.
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Au contraire, ventilation wont bring a house's temp below the outdoor temp. The keys are insulated roof plus earth floor. The earth floor is a constant source of damp, and as this damp evaporates it cools. Same principle as an evaporative cooler, only big.
In the winter tho, it'll be damper and colder.
Overhanging roof will help as well, and a hgh ceiling with ventilation at the top means the hottest stratum of air escapes. Be grim in winter tho.
Regards, NT
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