This is probably a daft question, as I'm not terribly good at carpentry!
I want to make a small square window casement 400 x 400. My carpentry skills are just about up to cutting the wood square and the right length. I can even rout it to make a space for puttying in the glass.
Where I fall down is the skills to make joints at the four corners. Are there any fitments I can just drill in to join the wood at the corners? They would need to be fairly sturdy, as this is an opening casement.
You'd likely get away with simply glueing and screwing. Most joints date back to before either. Not to say they aren't better.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
Wooden dowels?
Halving joint is pretty simple.
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Any screws would inevitably be into the end grain, though. I thought there might be special end-grain fixings, but I can't find any.
Not with a halving joint - screws would be strong there.
Just make them long & be sure to pilot hole them. You don't need superstrong for a little window.
NT
Can be pretty successful if you use the correct screws and pilot holes, in conjunction with a decent glue. Not saying by any means it's the strongest joint, but probably OK for a window frame that isn't load bearing.
I'll have a go. I don't think my carpentry is up to even a halving joint.
The original plan was to get this done by a joinery shop. I have phoned five or six, and only one answered the phone. He wanted £115 + VAT, which seemed like quite a lot to me.
Is it an outside window which will be subject to 'weather'?
The problem you'll have is that unless the joints are really tight, water will get in and start rotting the frame from the corners. If you get it done by a joinery, you'll get tight-fitting machine-cut mortise and tenon joints, with far less scope for water ingress.
Another way might be to make a laminated frame with alternating lengths as you go though the layers (minimum of two to give you easy halving joints).
That way only have to cut the lengths right and reasonably square and then either glue (external quality PVA is probably the cleanest or your preferred glue) and clamp, or clamp dry, drill and screw and then unscrew, glue and re-screw. It might need weighting on a flat surface while the glue goes off (and where the screwed version is easier).
So, say you wanted a frame that was 90mm thick and double glazed you could go for some 30 x 70 for the inner layer (if externally glazed) then 30 x 60 for the next two, to give you room for the bead (overlapping in opposite directions on the corners, effectively making a 'bridal' or 'open tenon' joint).
Cheers, T i m
Rather than try to rout a slot for the glass, it is easier to rout or plane a rebate and retain the glass with a bead. If the glass is bedded in putty, the final assembly will be strong in shear.
Making a good mortise and tenon joint is very satisfying. I'd use this as a great excuse to develop a new skill. After three or four frames you'll probably get one that's "good enough". ;-)
Tim
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