Leaking lockshield valves

[Jim]

I had the valves and LSVs changed on 5 rads to brand new Honeywell VTL120 Thermostat valve plus LSV kit.

Two of the new LSVs leaked - not around the spindle (and it seems to be the cheap type without a spindle nut), but where the big brass nut (with hole in centre for the spindle) screws into the chrome "L". (The rad pipe to chrome "L" is definately OK.)

The guy (a friend) who did this for me nipped the 2 offenders up and they are now damned tight, but this has only fixed one of them.

I spoke to the suppliers who will gladly replace them, but the value is trivial compared with the effort.

Also any thoughts on changing this LSV without draining down which is difficult as it is a downstairs rad and tough to get much lower.

Thanks.

Jim

[chudford]

I have just changed one of my daughter's LSVs which she had broken the spindle. I did this without draining the system by using a pipe freezer pack round the connecting pipe. You will have to drain the radiator first.

[Slider]

Get a bung kit (providing you have a conventional F&E type system)

[Roger Mills]

You should be able to replace one valve without draining the whole system. You didn't say whether it was a vented (with F&E tank in the attic) or unvented (with pressure vessel and filling loop) system.

Either way, you'll need to drain and remove the radiator involved. Then, if it's a vented system, bung up the feed and vent pipes at the F&E tank and open the offending valve and drain until no more comes out. You can then remove and replace it. If it's an unvented system, you'll need to de-pressurise it before removing the valve.

[The Medway Handyman]

Bung a leak sealer into the system, it very often sorts things out.

[Jim]

Update: The plumber friend it tightned up - didn't help. I tightened it some more - didn't help. He tightened it some more - FIXED

I'm not very very impressed with the apparant manufacturing quality here from genuine Honeywell. Anyway saved a niusance changout job.

Thanks.