I need to do a few joints in work surfaces, a couple of them right angles.
Any advice on the way to do these joints would be greatly appreciated. I
understand the principal of the long screw bolts and assume that I router
out the grooves for these. My main concern is the cutting of the work
a) can I use a circular saw?
b) for a 600mm surface at right angles do I cut a straight line for , say,
580mm and then a 45 degree cut for the remainder?
c) in addition to the bolts pulling the surfaces together I have also seen
biscuit joins in some situations - how important is this?
If you leave out the word "probably" then your statement is very
I bought the big router and worktop jig not so long ago. These aren't
Worktop jigs are available on ebay for about 50 smackers. I have no
idea of the quality because I went for the real McCoy.
The problem I found with a circular saw is it cuts upwards so is always trying
to lift and chip the laminate. And if you turn the worktop over to avoid this
you can't see what you're doing. There is still a part of the blade going the
Have a go at this on a scrap piece first - carefully score the laminate with a
sharp Stanley knife and then cut close to it gently, using a fine hand saw. You
can use a small plane on the edge as long as it's sharp and set very finely.
Somebdy once told me to stick sellotape along the score line - I never tried
Yep - that's what I'd do for a rounded worktop
They keep the surface flush across the joint. Good idea, especially when the
worktop is not properly supported at the joint.
Its not a very good finish, even with a straight new fine tioothed blade.
These days I cut over size and finsish with a fine pass from a router
set at pull depth. Packing tape over the cut surface allows lines to be
easily drawn and helps prevent surface chipping.
From memory, its a bit less than 20mm. More like 10mm - just enouh to
get proper mating on teh curved front edge. Its not pssible to rout the
internal angle, so a very fine fretsaw and chisel is used to clean up
The only important thing is to get teh two bits immoveably clamped
together and a watertight seal. I have often done no more than screw a
batten underneath. I tend to use car body filler to glue them together
as well -waterproof, and suits my usual dark grey finishes well. If the
units are well mounted, and won't move, and teh tops are screwed down to
them, the batten is enough to stop the halves wobbling apart. If you do
have the routing jigs for the more complex ways - well why not sue em. I
think teh biscuits are there to senure vertical alignment so there is no
ridge. In my case, the join is suaually over a cupboard or void, and the
batteen does the same.
Any minor imperfections can be filled, by the way, with coloured epoxy
I am in Essex, as you guessed, 30 mins from the Dartford Crossing [ on a
Have done work in Kent
Have van will travel
Extra out of my area of course
My area is approx. east of M25 south of A12, to Chelmsford then due east
I thought it was on the site, I will add it
Thanks for the prompt.
Thanks for all the contributions. I've decided to chicken out and get a
joiner to do the cuts. I will then practise on the removed surfaces to
install in my outhouse utility room.
The only problem now is convincing 'er indoors that I meant Christmas 2004
as the completion date.
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