There used to be an iron called scope (may still get them)it had a small copper tip it had a ring or button on the handle that pushed a carbon tip to contact the copper. It was supplied by a 3 volt 30 amp transformer and if you held the thing on too long the tip glowed
Ah, same as mine (mine's 50W, which I think is older - bought it in
1980 IIRC, one of the best tool purchases I have ever made). I always use the 800F bits, even for delicate electronics, and that's lead/tin solder too (most of my component stock predates lead-free).
Must admit I've never used lead-free electrical solder, but that's partly because I've read all the problems it causes, and as I said, my component stock is mainly leaded.
I do use both lead-free and leaded solder for plumbing, and can't claim to have noticed much difference in use.
It's not harder to use as such, just different. You need to get the hang of how to use it. Things like solder paste only come in unleaded versions these days.
If you don't get it hot enough, unleaded looks like it's melting but flows badly. So the main thing is to have a hot enough iron and sufficient flux. I'm not sure if the unleaded stuff has less added flux, or if the flux evaporates too quick at the highest temperature. Extra flux plus a flux clean session afterwards does help (solder paste seems to be about 75% flux, so maybe that's why it works so well but leaves huge deposits behind).
I've now got the 900F bit for my iron, and have been doing some test battery soldering. It seems to be doing the trick nicely - soldering zinc-carbon Ds is quite quick and straightforward. It struggled a bit on tinning a bean can - not surprising when the workpiece is one big heatsink - but managed it OK with some patience. It oxidises scarily quickly and generally gets worryingly hot when you aren't using it, so it's important to switch it off if you aren't going to be using it for a few mins or more. In all cases plenty of flux makes a world of difference.
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