Handling a very heavy steel beam

We would probably roll the beam into position on scaffold tubes, it is amazing the loads you can shift using this method. Once in position, we normally would try to use Genie lifts to get the beam up to the correct height, then scaffold up underneath the beam to support it, lower it onto the scaffold (pre-greased) and slide/ turfor it into final position. If the ground the genies are on is really good, i.e. decent flat concrete, we would use the genie's to just roll it into place rather than slide it. The scaffold is there then only as a safety feature in case of a problem.

This is the type of lift I mean

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Reply to
Jeff
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================================== With care the same result could be achieved by using conventional bottle jacks - readily available with 20 ton lift. It might be necessary to dig holes under the beam to position the jacks for the initial lift.

Jacking would be preferable to hoisting because no heavy overhead structure would be needed to support a winch.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Yeah, that must look absolutely fantastic

Reply to
Steve Walker

Aye, but with 100 strong disposable blokes on hand too though.

Reply to
Steve Walker

I'm not talking about hoisting anything using this method. Genie type lifts are like small fork lift trucks, they stand on the floor and lift from below.

Method:

The beam is placed on the forks of two, three, four or whatever Genie lifts (available to hire from most liftNshift type places), lifted to the required height and then positioned. There is no overhead structure heavy or otherwise. What we do is get the beam in position on the lifts then build a scaffold box frame either side of the lift. Lift the beam to height + 100mm or so then join the two frames transversly with scaffold tubes which have been greased or have a piece of plastic tube the width of the beam slid over them. We then lower the beam onto these tubes and simply slide it or tirfor it (if it is a heavy beast) into position on its columns. Of course, the scaf tubes are raised a few mm above the level of the columns so the beam will slide over them. Once they are in position we resite the Genies under the beam, lift it again a few mm and then remove the transverse tubes, the beam is then lowered onto the columns, bolts inserted, job done, safely and with almost no manual effort. In a confined space like inside a house or a basement, I have never found an easier, faster or more importantly SAFER method of doing the above.

Another method would be to erect a lifting tower on the floor above, cut holes in the floor and then drop chain hoists through to lift the beam. this would entail input from a structural engineer though to make sure the floor & walls can sustain the lifted load + lifting frame & Hoists + safety margin. I much prefer the first method but have used the second when the ground below is too rough for genie lifts.

How would _you_ get a 7 metre, 1 tonne beam, 2.5 metres into the air and onto a support using bottle jacks sounds dodgy to me but I am intruiged :-)

Reply to
Jeff

3,000 Celtic peasants. Worked at Stonehenge :-)
Reply to
The Medway Handyman

and Rangers did Avebury and Silbury Hill.

Reply to
Paul Herber

Well Ard them Celts :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

================================== I wasn't suggesting that your method involved hoisting with an overhead structure. That was just a general observation that it's generally easier to jack from below rather than lift from above since no hoist framework is required.

As far as the OP's situation is concerned he asked for,

"........... the best/ easiest/ most cost effective way of getting the beam from the lorry at the front of the house to the back of the house then up onto the steel columns that will be supporting it. The beam will be at first floor level (i.e. approx 2.5m from the ground)."

Getting the beam from the road to the lift location is straightforward using a combination of planks, rollers and scotches.

Bearing in mind that this is a domestic build, I would suggest that two piers be built progressively using concrete building blocks. Each course would consist of three 18" x 9" blocks so that a bond can be achieved without using mortar. Most jacks have a maximum lift of about 9" so the piers could be built progressively using pieces of 4" x 2" timber as support on top of the piers during intermediate lifts. The jacks would be positioned between two of the blocks during each intermediate lift and the missing block inserted as each intermediate lift is completed.

When the actual lift is complete I would suggest that it might be easier to roll the joist into position (having been lifted on its side) rather than slide on scaffold poles etc.

This lifting method is safe and economical since the jacks are cheap to hire (if not already owned) and the blocks could be re-used.

Anybody interested in the use of jacks for heavy moving jobs should watch a few episodes of 'Mega Movers'. It's all a matter of scale.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Must take about half an hour to close the curtains each evening though.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Naw, the one of the hall boys does it.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

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