firedoors on loft conversion

Due to incompetent builders, I'm having to finish my loft conversion myself. At the top of the stairs, I understand I need a firedoor. Two questions.

  1. I can but a firedoor, but what does it require in the way of fitting that a normal door doesn't? Thicker door jam? Extra hinges? Min size of hinge? (100mm vs 76mm).

  1. I have 2 doors at the top of the new stairs. 1 bedroom and one bathroom. Does the bathroom require a firedoor as well? Or just he bedroom?

TIA

Hamish.

Reply to
Hamie
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You need either thicker door stops (must be 25mm or more), or an intumescent strip on both sides as well as the top. Most ready made fire doors will have the strip at the top, but not the sides, so it is normally simpler to go the thicker door stop route.

The extra thickness of stop does not look too bad if you make the stops deep enough and then disguise the step with a bit of quadrant moulding.

You need three firedoor rated hinges (EN 1935). These were the cheapest I found:-

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you need a self closer on the door.

Just the bedroom.

(nothing to stop you using a firedoor if you want though - they do feel more "solid")

Reply to
John Rumm

Jamb. Hope someone else has been more helpful!

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Presumably you're getting building control round to sign it off, so why not just ask them exactly what they require? Not saying you won't necessarily get the right answers from this ng, but at the end of the day, its the BCO who has to be satisfied with what you install, so going straight to the horse's mouth has got to be your best bet.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Probably because it is handy to know what he *should* be saying in advance for those occations you get one who is not as well clued up as he ought to be!

Reply to
John Rumm

I could just make the stop the complete width of the remaining door frame... That's how the frame in NZ were done anyway (At least the houses I even lived in). I never did understand why they were just thin strips of wood here... I don't mind the thicker stop... Do people not like them for some reason? I think I like them better...

What about the bottom of the door? Is there a minimum gap between the bottom of the door and the carpet?

Right.

Ah yeah. I'm going to go for those internal hidden ones. Is there any problem with drilling that hole in the door? (i.e. it makes a weak spot?)

Brilliant. Thanks for your replies.

Oh. The reason I ask here & not the BCO is because it takes several weeks for the BCO to ever get back to you round here...

Reply to
Hamie

Ah, careful, I mean "thicker" on the other axis!

i.e If you were looking down the jamb:

Typical standard door:

--> = 25mm __ | a |__ | __| |========================== || Fire Door __|==========================

The actual front to back depth of the stop is not that important, although for aesthetic reasons 2" or more looks best. The thickness (i.e. how far the stop intrudes into the door space) is important since it dictates how effective the door will be as a smoke break.

(the quadrant can go in the corner on the opposite side of the stop (i.e. near "a") - it makes the stop look less thick from the outside of the room).

Not that I am aware of, although common sense suggests they want to be close fitting. I adjusted mine such that the door just lightly skims the carpet.

Not really - the centre section of most doors (not only fire doors) will have wooden blocks built into both sides to allow fitting of rebated lock mechanisms etc. So you can fit chain closers by drilling a hole with a spade bit (and possibly recessing the face plate with a chisel)

Reply to
John Rumm

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