Fire regs question

[TheTaffia]

I am in the process of selling my house and I would like to finally do the repairs & alterations that the homebuyers-survey highlighted when I bought the house a couple of years ago. Most of the problems are pretty minor (a bit of pointing, a guttering repair etc) but the one which has me a bit puzzled is the integral garage ceiling fire-proofing. The house was extended around ten years ago (before I bought it) to include a large integral garage which runs the length of the house with a bedroom and en-suite above. The (plastic) soil pipe for the en-suite bathroom runs through the garage ceiling and into the garage floor, and is not boxed in, which it should be according to the survey. I would tend to agree with that since plastic can obviously melt. My question is: How should I box this in? I was going to just use some 2x2 softwood for the frame, regular plasterboard with a plaster skim to finish, is this correct or do I need to use some special plasterboard or finishing plaster?

My second question is: in addition to the plastic soil pipe running through the ceiling, there is also a 15mm copper pipe coming through the ceiling and down the garage wall which allows us to get cold water without having to go into the house, does this need to be boxed in as well? I would argue that it doesn't since copper doesn't melt too easily.

I have looked through previous posts but can't see a clear answer to either of the above.

Thanks in advance

[Christian McArdle]

Unless your BCO allows less, a double layer of 12.5mm plasterboard should be good.

Christian.

[Bob Mannix]

Or you can use "Fireline" plasterboard in one layer

[Christian McArdle]

But then you have to put up with the lurid pink until you can paint it!

Christian.

[TheTaffia]

Thanks for the tips lads, whats the verdict on whether or not the copper pipe is ok when not boxed in? Maybe I need to give my local BCO a call. Its a bit of a minor point I know but I remember when we first bought the house (it was our first house) we almost pulled out because the surveyor seemed to sensationalize(?) things which were really only small problems, but which looked pretty scary to us a the time. He didn't spot the totally damp & rotten kitchen floor which needed replacing though - idiot.

[Christian McArdle]

I would ask the BCO.

Obviously, in a fire, any solder joints in the pipe could come apart. However, against this, it might turn the pipe into a sprinkler, so I'm in two minds as to whether the dismantled pipe would be a hindrance or help.

Christian.

[tinnews]

I have to say that in a fire hot enough to melt solder (and/or melt the platic down pipe) the least of one's worries would be the loss of said pipes surely.

[Christian McArdle]

Indeed. However, if the pipe falls off, there is now a hole between the fire and the sleeping accommodation above through which very hot gases can pass. This might be the difference between life and death for the occupant of this room.

Christian.

[tinnews]

Ah, yes, I did wonder whether this might be the issue for the plastic downpipe.

[adder1969]

Steel joists usually need to be fireproofed/boxed in but I'm not sure what risk the copper pipe would be. As I understand it, things don't need to be totally fireproof but provide fire protection for a certain period of time so it could be that the copper pipe would be ok. I think that maybe accomodation above a garage needs to be more fireproof than a for a regular room.

You could leave the pipe for the next surveyor to comment on, or box it all in now.

[Lobster]

I'd have thought so too.

Regarding the soil pipe, wouldn't it be simplest just to fit an intumescent fire collar? eg

To the OP - in the event of a fire, these things swell up to block off the hole made by the melted soil pipe.

David

[Owain]

AIUI You don't have to box the whole pipe in if you seal where the fire compartment is broken (ie the ceiling) with an intumescent collar, which if the pipe melts will expand and reseal the fire compartment.

Owain