Dry lined wall - what are the 'rules'?

I'm about to build a parition wall which will split our (very large) hall in half. It'll be about 2.5 metres square (yes, our hall is 2.5 metres wide), with a door in it.

Are there any 'standards' for this sort of thing, i.e. how far apart the supporting wood should be, how thick the wall should be etc.?

I guess the norm for timbers is around 4"x2" (100x50), is that about right? ... and then will it be easy to find a door frame to match?

Reply to
tinnews
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Usually 2x4 framing, 2' spacing, 1 row of noggings, 12mm board.

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?title=3DStud_wall_noise_reductionNT

Reply to
NT

Depends to some extent on how much room you've got, and how strong it needs to be. A lot of partitions in offices are made of two sheets of plasterboard bonded to some central honeycomb - with an overall thickness of less than 2".

If using wooden studding, 3x2 is a fairly safe bet, with the 3" dimension (plus plasterboard) defining the wall thickness. You could probably get away with less than 3", and 4" would be an overkill unless you want to build it like your proverbial brick ****house!

The vertical studs need to suit the board dimensions, but need to be no more than about 18" (450mm) apart. You need to have 2 or 3 horizontal noggins between each pair of uprights.

You can buy standard door 'linings' (frames) for internal walls - with halving joints already cut in the horizontal bit, so you simply have to assemble and trim them, and build them into your wall. If they're too wide for the studding plus two thicknesses of board, you may need to cut or plane some off the edges before assembly.

Are you planning to skim the boards (or pay someone to do it for you)? I have had reasonable success with just putting self-adhesive scrim tape over the joints and then covering the joints with jointing compound similar to

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the ones I've done, it's virtually impossible to see the joins after the wall has been painted - but it is a bit time-consuming applying several layers of compound and sanding smooth after each layer dries. Depends on whether or not you want to avoid the mess associated with wet plaster - and the cost, if you have to pay someone to do it.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Thanks Roger (and all the other replies). Maybe I'll go for 3" x 2" then, there's no need for it to be incredibly solid. I like your idea for avoiding skimming the wall, I should be able to get away with very few joints anyway. What size sheets does plasterboard come in?

Reply to
tinnews

4x8 are good for walls. You can get smaller too, if those are too heavy or unmanoeuvrable.

NT

Reply to
NT

If you are going to put a door across the route that leads to the front door you might find there are some fire regulations involved. This is more likely to be significant if the house has more than 2 stories. Also, AIUI, building conrol are involved if yo userate one space into two spaces (also because of the fire regs).

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

We have three other doors, I'm not really sure which is the 'front' door.

Reply to
tinnews

Our house is too rambling to comply with that requirement already! Although thinking about it there's only one habitable room (a bedroom) where you have to go through another room (another bedroom) before you get to the upstairs corridor.

Adding the door in the hall won't make this apply to any more rooms I don't think.

Reply to
tinnews

The norm for timber size depends on board thickness (& type) ... it timber fame which is the biggest user of this type of construction it would NOT be 4 x 2 it would be to use CLS 38 x 89

For the 12mm boards I used, the vertical spacing was 600mm for walls.

Reply to
Rick

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