door for outbuilding - Frame advice needed

[Shabs]

My outbuilding is now ready for a door. I have a hardwood door, but can i use 4x2 wood available from wickes to make my door frame? or do i have to get a hardwood frame?

[Rick Dipper]

A hardwood door will look silly in a softwood frame.

Also the frame will wear out quicker than the door, and be less secure than the door.

Rick

[Christian McArdle]

I wouldn't be so sure. My mother has a number of hardwood sash windows in the original pine frames. They've matched the colour so precisely, that (unless very close up) it is only the lack of knots in the sash frames that tell you that the woods are utterly different.

If the frame and door were painted, it would be even less obvious.

Christian.

[Andy Hall]

You don't *have* to use hardwood, but the appearance might look a bit odd with mixing hard and soft wood.

In either event, I wouldn't buy the wood from Wickes, but find a timber merchant.

.andy

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[Set Square]

It's a matter of preference, and appearance! A softwood frame won't last as long, and will need painting to protect it from the elements. I suppose you could always use tanalised timber - it depends on whether you're going for a rustic or refined look!

[Shabs]

As i am not bothered about the looks, will the softwood structurally hold the hardwood door with 3 hinges sufficiently.

With regards to weathering, the softwood frame will be treated with the likes of Sadolin.

[Christian McArdle]

The frame will be fine structurally, if it is attached to sufficiently strong studwork.

Christian.

[Ian Stirling]

Yes, at least initially. It will probably rot faster.

I'd cover the area behind the hinges with Creosote, or what ever the modern replacement is.

[Andy Hall]

As long as you make the frame with substantial enough timber (say 50mm min thickness) drill for the screws and use 50mm screws it should be fine with three 75mm hinges.

OK, then I would temporarily fit the door and check for correct fit, then remove the hinges and treat the wood.

If you are going to use planed timber or will plane it, start with the thinner basic solvent based Sadolin because it will soak in better. Then either use more coats of that (probably 3 total) or use one of the higher grade Sadolin products with more solids for the top coats.

.andy

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[Rob Graham]

What a timely thread - I was going to ask this question when this thread comes along.

Question - I want to split a 20 foot long brick shed in half to give two 10 foot areas. Do I need planning permission/building warrant and can I just cut out the brickwork and put in the door frame for the new door or does it require a reinforced lintel for the foot or so of brickwork above the door.

Thanks

Rob