Cordless drill - best for occasional use

[John Rumm]

How about:

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Every single cordless drill pack I've taken apart uses the same physical size cells - so assuming the layout of them is the same you should be ok.

However, have you tried getting the correct pack? B&Q sell ones for quite old PP types.

[OG]

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Think I saw a PP 18 volt replacement for under 20 quid in B&Q.

[OG]

I'll have a look

[OG]

Whoops, but you know what I meant.

I'm sure it gave everyone a chuckle though :+)

[John Rumm]

You will probably find it makes a massive improvement to the performance of the drill though - probably better than new.

(failing that, recell it yourself. You can get sub C cells from

[T i m]

I've still got my cat but not sure if 1) I'm up to racing it any more or 2) that there are many places I *could* run it any more?

I've gone back to RC electric car racing (via my daughter) and we are both doing ok. For a more intense use of RC (as in %of time actually using the stuff V being in the pits etc) the RC Laser (1/4 scale Olympic class single hander) fit's the bill. Is pretty ready to run out of the bag and nearly indestructable and NiMH, 2300's last all day ;-)

Never happens when it's quiet does it John ..?

LOL!

It gave them summat to talk about!

Was there much damage to the boat John (apart from the coupling)?

All the best ..

T i m

[John Rumm]

Well it flattened the first couple of inches of its nose (which was no loss since it was already rebuilt from pastic padding following a previous "boat to bank interface incompatability", however it actually separated the deck to hull joint for about the first 12 inches of the boat! The coupling was of a double universal joint type (which "experts" kept telling me would never last fve mins anyway - in fact it had lasted very well until then!).

Still it was a good chance to rebuild and make a few improvements into the process (new rubber engine mounts and prop coupling for starters).