Buying a Router

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Can't comment on the power level - the one I bought back in the summer was dead on arrival *and* the plunge lock didn't lock. Back it went to B&Q for a refund - I didn't feel like risking a replacement!
--
Cheers,
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wrote:

That was an interesting design feature of the one I took back as well. I've never seen a sliding plunge lock on a router before!
No matter how hard I pressed the plunge lock down the router still decided it was only an advisory feature and that I really wanted the router to make up its own mind about how deep to cut.....
Pile of shite.
PoP
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PoP wrote:

That was the main reason I decided to ditch the B&D "Woodworker" router I had before my T5 - except in its case the "lock" drifted toward a shallower cut all the time.
--
Cheers,

John.

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On Thu, 18 Dec 2003 13:07:12 +0000, John Rumm

Which on the face of it is better than the router taking a deeper cut than intended as its easier to take another pass to remove more wood than to replace wood that shouldn't have been taken out!
Though still appalling!
PoP
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wrote:

I got one from Do It All a couple of weeks ago from their EXCEL range, 1/2" collet + smaller sizes, 1050W motor and 10 bits. I can't remember what the normal price is but got it on one of their 50% off everything promotions and it came in less than 30.
I've used it a couple of times and it's OK for what I needed it for. If you want quality I'd go for a known brand but if you want something to use a couple of times a year then pay yer money and take yer choice.
One downer with it is the fence is a bit flimsy - also to fit it back in the plastic case you have to totally dismantle the fence!
Oh, and it comes with a spare set of motor brushes don't know if thats a good thing or not!
good luck
Kev
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On 16 Dec 2003 16:20:18 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@awt-ltd.co.uk (Kev Parkin) wrote:

I have an Excel SDS drill, and also an Excel circular saw. Both came with spare motor brushes - I think it's a feature of the range. Doesn't bother me - I think I read somewhere that the brushes are changed after about 50 hours of continuous use - and if I get anywhere near that amount of use from these tools then they've more than paid for themselves.
I'm quite pleased with both these products and would certainly consider other tools from the range if I had a need. The SDS drill is a bit on the heavy side though, as befits any SDS drill bought for under 100.
I used it last week to take tiles off a bathroom wall - that's a first for me and it was terrific fun! Place chisel bit against edge of tile, click SDS start button, complete tile falls off wall within 0.5 seconds. Repeat ad infinitum :)
PoP
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And so is the 1250W one. Awful plunge. Dreadful threads on the collets. Lousy switch. Poor depth control. Awkward rotation stop mechanism. Very limited plunge depth. Almost unusable with the perspex cover in place.
Still - got me out of a hole. Needed a router that could manage a bit more than my 1/4" cheapie. Bought one of these. Used it and then returned because of the above. Ideally, it would have been good enough to keep (and I did originally intend to do so) as I have a number of upcoming uses which don't really warrant the cost of a decent 1/2" one but would overtax my current one.
Rod
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need

looking
same
I bought a TREND T5, this takes 1/4" and 8mm .......... I buy all my cutters in 8mm now, find this size ideal for all work I can do - much stronger than 1/4"
TREND seems a very good machine, and easy enough for hand held tasks.
Rick
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On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 12:48:39 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@leeds.ac.uk wrote:

I'd suggest a 1/4" Power Devil (because it;'s cheap) and then a 1/2" Freud (170), _if_ and when you need it. I'm very unimpressed by 1/2" routers in the 100 region, and there's nothing you get for over 200 that the Freud doesn't do.
Cheap 1/4" routers are useful, even when you have a biggie too. They're lightweight, and they're handy for running a quick roundover or something where you take the machine to the job. You'll grow out of such a router, and you might chose to buy something better later on. But you'll get your money's worth, you'll keep using it afterwards, and it'll give you a better idea for what to buy next time.
The bigger 1/4" Ferm (36 from Screwfix) might be worth a look too.
-- Smert' spamionam
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On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 00:33:40 +0000, Andy Dingley

Do you think that the Freud would be a reasonable purchase to be fitted permanently in a router table, Andy?
I'm getting fed up with taking others in and out. Is there a fine height adjustment on it suitable for this application?
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
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Andy Hall wrote:

That is where my Freud spends most of its life...
Yes its actually very good in the table. The fine height adjuster is built in, and is a large and substantial control that is easy to use. The speed controller is good as well - it goes down low enough to make it safe using big cutters, and it has feedback control - so the speed stays constant even under load. (one implication of this is you can't use the sound of the motor note to judge the cutting load - hence you have to think more carefully about exactly what you are asking from it!)
--
Cheers,

John.

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wrote:

Mine is used in the table more than freehand. Freehand I use it about 50:50 between that and a 1/4" AEG.
It's particularly good in a table, because it has a big screw height adjuster as standard. I don't know why more routers don't do this as standard - it's one of the reasons I always recommend the Freud.
Switch is a little hard to reach, although easy enough to work blind. I have a NVR switch & socket mounted on the table.
-- Smert' spamionam
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need

looking
same
I had bad experiences with a 'generic' Chinese made router from Homebase.
Returned two because the height stop was bent, and concluded this was a design fault - they were all shipped with the router in 'plunge' position which bent the highest stop.
These routers (many of the 'branded' ones) look like a cheap Chineese copy of an older Trend.
I finally bought a B&D router which was on special offer - paid between 30 and 40 for it IIRC.
This seems much better engineered and has met my modest needs so far.
The cheap router bit set I got from B&Q is O.K. to learn on, but a good bit (e.g. from Trend) would be a worthwhile investment for a quality finish. However these tend to cost up to 30 each depending on size and complexity, so brace yourself for paying as much or more for the bits as you do for the router.
HTH Dave R
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Thanks for the useful info. Looks like I need to spend more than 100 to get good enough quality. At least I know that now and I'll look out for a better make.
As for my speakers, I do know what I'm doing :-) 3 way active left and right, 2 way active centre and active subwoofer. I consider this to be the best book on speaker design (in you don't mind graphs and a bit of maths)..
http://www.audioxpress.com/bksprods/books/bkaa60.htm
Cheers
Neil
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snipped-for-privacy@leeds.ac.uk wrote:

Argos have a 1/4" 8mm 1/2" JCB router at 39:99 at the moment, cheaper and no probs returning if it fails inside a year.
Niel.
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