Briggs & Stratton 4-stroke mower

My trusty old mower is no longer trusty. It starts OK, and runs for a couple of circuits of the lawn, then stops dead. The stop is so sudden it almost seems electrical, but in other respects it's as if the fuel in the carburettor float chamber has been used up and not replenished - but of course there is no float chamber, and the fuel system looks childishly simple. The electrics are so simple - no moving parts except the magneto - that it's hard to see what could go wrong there either. Maybe there is something about the fuel system that I don't understand. I've taken all the fuel-related bits off, and when I feel inspired I'll take them apart and clean everything. Meanwhile, perhaps someone with experience can suggest what I should be looking for. The sparkplug is new, by the way. It does look rather sooty, but not at the business end (close to the gap).

Reply to
Gib Bogle
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There is still a reservior with a pump to keep the level constant. Have a dig about on the B&S site for the proper manaul for your engine. The diaphragm might have failed or one of the flap valves isn't working properly.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

It'll stop dead as it's under load of sorts. Electrically, as you say they are simple and if it was an electrical issue you would have trouble starting every time. Check the carb hasn't come adrift slightly and is sucking air, other than that it's getting tired. Local mower shop or Ebay source a carb repair kit strip and sort it. (Item

190556871460 might do the job but you will have to ask them about your model or search for a kit for yours etc) Also source a new air filter and a can of carb cleaner spray and don't prod around with bits of wire in any ports or jets. Change the plug and the oil at the same time. If the plug is fairly black suspect piston rings, but that's usually after many years of use.

I used to look after a small fleet of these little buggers with several el'cheapo makes of two smoke as well which revved like a bugger when the field teams played with them during an 8 hour day. All a much of a muchness really to look after.

My trusty old mower is no longer trusty. It starts OK, and runs for a couple of circuits of the lawn, then stops dead. The stop is so sudden it almost seems electrical, but in other respects it's as if the fuel in the carburettor float chamber has been used up and not replenished - but of course there is no float chamber, and the fuel system looks childishly simple. The electrics are so simple - no moving parts except the magneto - that it's hard to see what could go wrong there either. Maybe there is something about the fuel system that I don't understand. I've taken all the fuel-related bits off, and when I feel inspired I'll take them apart and clean everything. Meanwhile, perhaps someone with experience can suggest what I should be looking for. The sparkplug is new, by the way. It does look rather sooty, but not at the business end (close to the gap).

Reply to
Londonman

Thanks for those leads. I haven't noticed anything resembling a pump, will look more carefully later. This machine is more than 20 years old. I bought it in the US and brought it back to NZ. SWMBO tells me to buy a new one, but I feel it's almost good still.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

These stops can occur under no load.

Unless it's intermittent.

Everything was screwed down tight. I'm certainly getting tired.

Thanks, it's possible that the kit will be available locally, but not likely, given the age of the mower.

I'm used to working on bike carbs, probably will not do anything stupid.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

I have recently had a similar problem with my 10+ yr old B&S mower, discussed over on uk.rec.gardening in the last few days. It would run for a minute or so and then stop. Pumping the fuel primer bulb got it going again for another minute or so. Popular suggestions were the rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump/carb had perished, or the vent holes in the fuel filler cap had become blocked. The latter can be checked by running with the filler cap loose or off altogether. The following may give you some ideas:

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thinking is that my problem was simply a blocked filler cap vent.

Reply to
Chris Hogg

One simple thing to check, could the petrol reservoir cap air vent be blocked? If it becomes blocked, you will gradually get a vacuum in the tank. An easy way to check would be to wait until it stops and loosen the cap. If you hear air rushing in and the engine then starts, invest in a new cap or make a small hole in the old one.

Reply to
Howard Neil

Does it have a "stop" wire somewhere on the throttle linkage? I have known these short out and cause the sort of problem you describe. The work by shorting the ignition to earth when the throttle is closed.

Mike

Reply to
MuddyMike

What engine is it? Does it have an obvious HP rating or a model number (model numbers sometimes stamped into the front of the cowling which sits around the flywheel)

I'm used to 4-stroke B+S 10 and 11 HP engines as I've got a couple of those, but I don't think I've ever had cause to mess with their smaller stuff.

cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules Richardson

Well, you've been given a fair number of things to check:

  • duff diaphragm in carb
  • airlock in fuel system
  • ignition cutout operating when it shouldn't, etc.

One other thing to check is the (ultra crude!) auto speed control mechanism. The throttle cable doesn't open the throttle directly, but does so via a spring. There's another spring, connected to a vane, which is trying to shut it. The vane is blown by some fins which rotate with the flywheel - the faster the rotation, the greater the force. the actual speed is determined by the equilibrium point between these two forces - and the idea is the speed remains more or less constant regardless of load. If bits of grass and other debris get inside the housing where the vane is, they can interfere with its operation. I'm not sure whether this would cause your symptoms, but it's easy enough to eliminate. You just need to remove the top cover of the engine, complete with recoil starter mechanism, and clean out the housing.

With regard to spares, I get the impression that B&S have used the same diaphragm in most of their carbs since Adam was a lad, so getting a replacement shouldn't be a problem.

Reply to
Roger Mills

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> Current thinking is that my problem was simply a blocked filler cap > vent.

Thanks, Howard Neil has the same idea. No fuel primer bulb on this engine. It is about 20 years old, and the carb is very simple.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

The cap vent is not blocked.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

I thought of that, but it looks OK.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

No engine number anywhere.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

I've checked that, all OK.

Actually the diaphragm is different from that on at least some other carbs - the YouTube videos I looked at (for an old 3.5 hp engine) have a carb with two intake tubes, while mine has just one.

Reply to
Gib Bogle

Thus spake Gib Bogle ( snipped-for-privacy@auckland.ac.nz) unto the assembled multitudes:

Gosh, and there's me complaining about driving 10 miles to buy a lawn mower ;-)

Reply to
A.Clews

Indeed. I wonder how long it took - at 3MPH - to get from USA to NZ!

Reply to
Roger Mills

Probably not the same as you have a magneto and, I assume, no battery, but I had a similar problem with my B&S powered lawn tractor. I traced the problem to the solenoid at the bottom of the carb. The purpose is to retract a needle from the main jet to permit the petrol to enter and to shut it off once the ignition is turned off to prevent 'afterfire'.

I replaced the solenoid with the appropriate UNF(?) bolt cut down to length and, provided I slow the engine to idle before stopping, I have no more problems with it.

Reply to
Pete Shew

Do you also have a manual shut off valve?

My Jonsered (different engine) has the same feature and, once or twice a season, would fill the cylinders with neat petrol.

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

This: suggests it might be a bad condenser/points.

More likely because you've checked the fuel side...

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

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