I want to stick stainless steel sheet to a surface that has a smooth non-porous coating (looks like epoxy resin). What adhesives are candidates? I've thought of epoxy resin, and contact adhesive. Any others?
A stainless steel benchtop has partially separated from its wooden frame, as a result of being buffed (and heating up, I presume). I want to stick it down again. I suppose I need to determine what adhesive was used initially. I'm guessing it was epoxy, but I don't know how to make sure of this. Someone (the buffer-duffer) has already tried to stick it back together with contact adhesive, but apparently didn't clamp it properly and achieved only a small area of contact, which failed to hold. As a result there is already contact adhesive on the surfaces, which predisposes me to using that option (but with proper clamping), because I'm not sure what else will stick to it and it is such a bugger to clean off (limited access into the gap). Removing the frame completely first is an option but a very unappealing one, because of the way the stainless steel sheet wraps around on two edges, creating, with the glue, a strong bond.
Thanks Gib. I was already going to suggest contact adhesive, but your additional details make it even more likely to be the best solution.
However, I wonder if anyone with experience of foaming polyurethane adhesive could comment on its suitability? I have only started using it comparatively recently, but it does appear to fit the task of sticking stainless steel to timber. The foaming aspect means that it will fill small gaps ensuring a better bond.
As I am sure you realise, the main difficulty with contact adhesive would be maintaining close contact over quite a large area while the contact adhesive sets.
The foaming polyurethane adhesive I use is here:
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pack states that it adheres well to wood AND METALS (my capitals) so it would appear to be a good choice.
There's moisture in the atmosphere, of course, but it has to get to the glue. If one substrate is porous that provides a pathway, but if both are non-porous the moisture has to diffuse through the thin layer of glue. I experimented with a product called Liquid Nails, commonly used for metals and wood. After a couple of days when I removed the clamp it opened up and the glue was still wet.
Yes, the surfaces must be brought into contact. That's what the clamps are for, to ensure that a good contact area is created. The guys who tried to fix it before clearly didn't use clamps, or not carefully, and I'm stuck with the results of that. This bench is about 3m long, and the metal needs to be forced into contact with the frame over that distance. At the moment there is a gap ranging from 3 cm to zero along the join.
The foaming PU adhesive should work fine in this application. I suggest you spray a very light mist of water into the joint before applying the adhesive then clamp the joint firmly for at least 24 hours..
And the cobbler stuck to his last - I wonder what he used?
The expanding foam could be a bit tricky to apply in my situation. I'm currently testing the philosopher's suggestion (or something like it) - what we call builder's bog, a polyester resin + hardener. So far it seems to be working on a small test patch.
Someone has already suggested polyurethane adhesive. Considering the two materials you are bonding this is more likely to work in that it retains a little flexibility when cured.
Why not give a manufacturer a ring and ask if they recommend it for bonding sheet stainless steel to a set resin or something like formica? I used a lot of adhesives and sealants when I was working and often rang the tech support people for advice where the situation was outside the normal. I always found them very helpful. Loctite people especially. They were the ones who told me how to bond PTFE to metal. Almost impossible with normal adhesives.
Primers on both surfaces allowed to dry and then a loctite adhesive applied. Sorry I can't recall the numbers of the adhesives and primers after 14 years. The primer left a green tint so it probably had a copper content. That's about all I can remember.
Roughen the surface and try cyanoacrylate gel and hardener
Did a search for the stuff but best I could come up with is this where they mention a primer for PTFE bonding
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