OK, thanks, it looks like the regs for radial circuits are more fool proof than those for ring circuits, as was pointed out any 'Joe Bodger & Son' could add more outlets to a spur off a ring and cause an overload situation.
In message , Christian McArdle writes
The manual doesn't give an overall rating, but at max. power the four hobs total 6.6kW, it's a Belling 6060.
Just a thought, but if the socket is no longer "in a convenient position", what about the isolating switch on the cooker point? This switch *must* be accessible and shouldn't be mounted directly above the cooking surface. If the re-arrangements have "hidden" this switch then perhaps you shouldn't be thinking of extending just the socket into a useable position, but extending the whole 30A circuit so that the switch is also useable.
I would consider a microwave a "high power load" - an 800W (this is the *output* rating) machine could easily have a current consumption of 1,500W which is half the maximum allowed from a 13A socket. If it is a combi device with heaters then it is likely to be able to draw 2.5kW or more.
My "rule of thumb" for beginning to worry about a device being "high power" (on a sockets circuit) is if it has a consumption somewhere above
750 or 1,000W - particularly if it is continuous, but that's just my own invention :-) A 300W lamp is "high power" on a lighting circuit.Having said that, I've just left a similar situation in a client's house
- said client had previously extended in 2.5mm2 from the cooker point to a double socket which runs the fridge/freezer and then tiled over. I wouldn't be too worried if it were *just* the fridge freezer (from a consumption p-o-v) but the second socket is accessible and it would be possible for him to decide to use the electric kettle on that side of the room. He doesn't want it changing, so the only thing I can do is say it "doesn't comply".
The main issue of course is the use of 2.5mm2 cable under the protection of a 30A/32A device. To be honest for a very short distance (less than 2 or 3 feet perhaps) under installation method 1 or equivalent it shouldn't be a problem, but it isn't really allowed as far as I can see. I suppose you could fuse it down, but you also have to consider the likely current demand. The issue then is nothing to do with safety (the separate fuse deals with that) but rather the "fit for purpose" thing - if the main trip regularly goes when the Sunday lunch is on the cooker and you decide to zap a cup of coffee then the installation isn't really fit, is it?
Hwyl!
M.
When installing wiring you have to consider the entire life of the installation. If you add a double socket, for your low power items, then in 5 or 6 years you move, how are you going to ensure that the new owners don't think that this is the ideal place for their kettle and 4- slice toaster....?
Matt
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