My Kitchen Range Hood fan has stop working after about 17 years. I went out
and bought a
replacement motor to replace it, after about a month the motor fan has
smokes coming out and
stop working, the plastic that cover the copper wire had melted. I took it
back to the store that
I bought it from and they replaced with a new one, after I put it back the
same thing happened and they
gave me a new one and I also bought a new switch. But after I look at the
wiring of the switch I desired
not to install the switch and just install the motor. After about a month
with the third motor the same thing
happened again, the fan stop working, the plastic cover melted and smokes
coming out. When I touch
the motor it was hot to the touch. We finally found the flyer the have the
information about the name of the
company that the Range Hood was manufactured, so I called the company and
went to buy a replacement
motor. The motor I got this time does not have plastic cover like the other
one. But after I installed and
my wife was using the fan for about a short time the motor slow down and
stop. After it cool down I can
turn it on and it run again. I called the company that I bought the motor
from they refer me to the installer
and suggest that to have them to come in and take a look. I called the
installer and he suspect that it's
must be the switch and suggest that I replace the switch. So I opened up
the metal plate the cover the
wire nut where the wire from the switch goes into connect with the wire from
main circuit board and found
that the BLUE wire from the switch connected to the RED, the RED from the
switch connected to BLACK.
This a puzzle to me the way it's being done. My question is should I
connect my new switch with the same
color together? (RED to RED, BLACK to BLACK and BLUE to BLUE).
Thank for any help with this.
The fact that it worked for 17 year and
then quit, and all the replacement motors
burned out, is suspicious. Have you
measured the voltage? Was the original
motor, for some unknown reason, a 220
with 220 coming into the hood? This also
smells similar to at least 2 other
threads here, about open neutrals. Just
a few ideas.
That's what I don't understand. Why has it been working with the incorrect
wiring for the past 17 years.
But with the new motor it just blown out or shut off. I am still not sure
if I should connect the new switch with the
correct wire color.
Another thing that I hesitate to connect with the correct wire color was
that I also found out that the motor that stop
working(original motor) was not from the manufacturer of the Range Hood by
the guy who sold me the replacement motor.
I was told that the motor was not from them because the design of the shaft
That lead me to thinking that the original motor must have blown when the
builder install the Range Hood that's why they had to install with a
diffrent motor. But I don't understand the way they wire the switch at all.
I might end up have to
hire the installer to come in to solve all this.
I don't know about 220 though.
I think it's time you learn to read a test meter or have someone that
does and disconnect the fan, leaving the wires exposed and check the
voltage. It's beginning to sound like it's been wired off the 220
stove outlet below.
I don't know of any appliances we have that are using 220 volt. I thought
only high-end appliances are using
220 volt. What we have is a Whirlpool cook top under the Range Hood.
I would like to learn how to read the test meter. Can you point me to where
can I learn how to use and read
the test meter. I actually have a cheap one that I bought from Fry's
Electronics. But I have never learn how to
use it yet.
go to page 4 and you'll see your cook top is 220 volts (they say 240v)
If you have an electric oven it is also 220 and so is an electric
clothes dryer and whole house air conditioners. Keep reading below:
In the package with the test meter was instructions. If you don't have
the instructions, meters have different ranges and settings, so I
won't attempt to tell you how to read yours.
It seem to me like it's time to pay an electrician.
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