Wrong wiring


Hi all,
My Kitchen Range Hood fan has stop working after about 17 years. I went out and bought a replacement motor to replace it, after about a month the motor fan has smokes coming out and stop working, the plastic that cover the copper wire had melted. I took it back to the store that I bought it from and they replaced with a new one, after I put it back the same thing happened and they gave me a new one and I also bought a new switch. But after I look at the wiring of the switch I desired not to install the switch and just install the motor. After about a month with the third motor the same thing happened again, the fan stop working, the plastic cover melted and smokes coming out. When I touch the motor it was hot to the touch. We finally found the flyer the have the information about the name of the company that the Range Hood was manufactured, so I called the company and went to buy a replacement motor. The motor I got this time does not have plastic cover like the other one. But after I installed and my wife was using the fan for about a short time the motor slow down and stop. After it cool down I can turn it on and it run again. I called the company that I bought the motor from they refer me to the installer and suggest that to have them to come in and take a look. I called the installer and he suspect that it's must be the switch and suggest that I replace the switch. So I opened up the metal plate the cover the wire nut where the wire from the switch goes into connect with the wire from main circuit board and found that the BLUE wire from the switch connected to the RED, the RED from the switch connected to BLACK. This a puzzle to me the way it's being done. My question is should I connect my new switch with the same color together? (RED to RED, BLACK to BLACK and BLUE to BLUE).
Thank for any help with this.
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Make sure the outside vent opens up when the motor runs. It may depend on air flow it generates for cooling. Is the filter clogged? Just some thoughts.

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Jeff wrote:

The fact that it worked for 17 year and then quit, and all the replacement motors burned out, is suspicious. Have you measured the voltage? Was the original motor, for some unknown reason, a 220 with 220 coming into the hood? This also smells similar to at least 2 other threads here, about open neutrals. Just a few ideas.
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Hi Art,
That's what I don't understand. Why has it been working with the incorrect wiring for the past 17 years. But with the new motor it just blown out or shut off. I am still not sure if I should connect the new switch with the correct wire color.
Another thing that I hesitate to connect with the correct wire color was that I also found out that the motor that stop working(original motor) was not from the manufacturer of the Range Hood by the guy who sold me the replacement motor. I was told that the motor was not from them because the design of the shaft was diffrent.
That lead me to thinking that the original motor must have blown when the builder install the Range Hood that's why they had to install with a diffrent motor. But I don't understand the way they wire the switch at all. I might end up have to hire the installer to come in to solve all this.
I don't know about 220 though.

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pkmicro wrote:

I think it's time you learn to read a test meter or have someone that does and disconnect the fan, leaving the wires exposed and check the voltage. It's beginning to sound like it's been wired off the 220 stove outlet below.
Tom J
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Tom J,
I don't know of any appliances we have that are using 220 volt. I thought only high-end appliances are using 220 volt. What we have is a Whirlpool cook top under the Range Hood.
I would like to learn how to read the test meter. Can you point me to where can I learn how to use and read the test meter. I actually have a cheap one that I bought from Fry's Electronics. But I have never learn how to use it yet.

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pkmicro wrote:

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/usappliance/gjc3634rinst.pdf go to page 4 and you'll see your cook top is 220 volts (they say 240v) If you have an electric oven it is also 220 and so is an electric clothes dryer and whole house air conditioners. Keep reading below:

In the package with the test meter was instructions. If you don't have the instructions, meters have different ranges and settings, so I won't attempt to tell you how to read yours.
It seem to me like it's time to pay an electrician.
Tom J
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Hi Jeff,
I don't think there's any problem with the filter or the outside vent because when the fan was on I have try putting a piece of paper towel and got sucked right into it.

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Put a multimeter across the leads going into the motor and check whether the motor is seeing what the installation booklet says it should be seeing. Do it without the motor actually connected.
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