What to charge for kitchen reno?

I just completed a reno for some friends:
22 pine cabinets doors sanded down, knots replaced or repaired, sealed, primed, 2 topcoats (60 hours)
Front and sides of all cabinets primed and 2 topcoats, some minor repair (10 hours)
16 lineal feet of laminate countertop applied to edges and top with a ceramic tile backsplash (12 hours)
2 exterior windows installed
I want to charge about 1/2 of the retail cost as these are friends - any guesstimates?
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couple ways to do this: start with materials * 3, go down or up from there.
figure out how much you want to be paid per hour. figure overhead (consumables). multiply. add in materials. go up or down from there.
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Thee are a few ways to go about it, but the most direct is the cost of material plus labor. Figure labor to include wages, taxes, insurance, overhead, etc. Most trades have to charge at least $40 to $60 an hour. I have three rates depending on what I'm doing. $0, $50, or $125.
To determine a fair hourly rate, you have to compare your skills to the typical tradesman. Let's say a kitchen installer/carpenter can to a given amount of work in one hour and charges $40 per hour. You are new at this and while you do good work, you only do half the amount of work in an hour. A fair rate would be $20. Apprentices are not charged out as much as a journeyman.
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You did that amount of work and you are asking what to charge to a bunch of strangers on the internet? You sir are a fool and an idiot. You obviously have no contract with your "friends" and they obviously have no idea what you intend to charge. You may just find that when this is all said and done, your "friends" may not be your friends anymore. A case of beer and call it a day. Anything more and I think you will find you are in for an interesting suprise. Let us know how this one turns out. Bubba
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wrote:

I'll have to agree with Bubba, How could you have done this work without first knowing what you were going to charge your rriends. Did your friends have any approximate idea what you might be charging? They might want to be your friends after you give them the bill, even if it is half of what a tradesman would have charged.
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There is work and there is quality professional finishing. You cant be a pro obtaining pro results if you have to ask here. It is possible I could see the job a reject it as poor. If you are learning your value is not based on time but results as a pro may do it 4 times faster and 4 times better. Just because you put in x hrs means nothing. Nodody can see the finish nobody can answer to its value.
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I would match my work to any pro anytime, as to duration I'm probably 1/2 as fast.

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You cant match a pro, you even used the worst product known for a harsh environment Latex on Kitchen cabinets. In a few years the oils from hands will destroy your " pro" job. You dont even realise out of all the products made you picked the worst . One that cannot be done without brush marks or true durability. Latex. Go learn from a pro
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I have used both over the last 20 years. Oil is more durable but yellows with time and also peels off from the oil and acid on your hand after many years. 100% acrylic latex will not yellow and so far has not been 'destroyed' in 14 years of use. The customer chose latex based on these facts. I suspect the 'debate' of oil vs latex will continue for many years.
Maybe the oils in your hands are proportional to the antagonistic nature of your replies?
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Did you say "half fast"?
BB

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Boy, who p***ed in your corn flakes? Martik asked a question about pricing a job, and you and Bubba jump all over the quality of his work without ever seeing his results.
I have seen some "amateur" jobs that have been stunning, and "pro" jobs that patently stunk.
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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Martic, exactly the oposite Latex absorbes oils and fails, fails to the point it peels off with your nails around the handles like rubber. Plus Latex will never flow out to a brushless finish, it sets up to quick. Only 2 oil products will, and news for you, Neither yellow, but both cost apx 40 a gallon so Im sure you have never used them, or Penetrol, or a 50$ brush. Keep Hacking.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (m Ransley) wrote in 3133.bay.webtv.net:

Homeowner alert: Some paints banned Jan. 1 New York and six other states plan to tighten regulations of certain oil- based paints and stains as of Jan. 1, meaning some products will soon be unavailable or available only in limited quantities.
The regulations are intended to help reduce the level of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the atmosphere, thereby reducing ground-level ozone the major component of urban smog.
In 1990, Congress formed the Ozone Transport Commission a multi-state organization responsible for developing and implementing regional solutions for the ground-level ozone problem in the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic. Since then, several states have established or are working on establishing their own VOC regulations based on recommendations by the commission.
After the first of the year, those lower VOC limits will go into effect in Delaware, the District of Columbia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia. Regulations will apply to 53 architectural coatings categories, including flats, non-flats, primers, stains, varnishes and industrial maintenance coatings.
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$1250.00
ps: cabinet work hours appear on the high side for work listed (although I don't doubt you actually spent 60 hours on it)

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Good guess, I asked them to pay whatever they felt comfortable with. They paid $1000 cash PLUS all the materials and special tools. The cabinet work would take 1/2 the hours next time as I will never again trust latex to adequately hide stained wood. They are an elderly couple without much money so I wasn't concerned with making alot of money. I would have gladly accepted 1/2 that amount.
With regard to the critical replies, remember this was a charitable job, I would always provide a written estimate for a 'market rate' job.
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You know what Mark? The more I read, the more your post is turning to shit. First you are going to charge them, then it becomes a "Charitable" job?? Do you know the definition of Charity? Then you say they are an elderly couple without much money. They gave you $1000 but you say you would have taken half? Why half? It would be because $500 is all you thought your work was worth, would it? You spent 60 hrs on cabinets that would have taken you 30 or less hours if you hadn't screwed up using latex on kitchen cabinets. A pro would have taken less than half that time. Then they had to pay for all materials and specialty tools?! A pro would have had all the tools. Have you given them back the other $500 that you would have gladly only accepted in the first place? No. I didnt think so. Sorry pal. I dont think much of what you have done. Either its a job or its a charity case. It doesnt work both ways. Crook, Gyipsy, Bandit..........There is all kinds of words for what you did. Bubba
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Shellac has traditionally been used to seal knots that weep through paints. Zinsser Seal Coat is a dewaxed shellac that can be used under any finish.

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Thanks, that's exactly what I used.
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What to charge for kitchen reno? Group: alt.home.repair Date: Fri, Dec 10, 2004, 9:52pm (CST+6) From: snipped-for-privacy@telus.net (Martik) I just completed a reno for some friends: 22 pine cabinets doors sanded down, knots replaced or repaired, sealed, primed, 2 topcoats (60 hours) Front and sides of all cabinets primed and 2 topcoats, some minor repair (10 hours) 16 lineal feet of laminate countertop applied to edges and top with a ceramic tile backsplash (12 hours) 2 exterior windows installed I want to charge about 1/2 of the retail cost as these are friends - any guesstimates?
The cabinet work would take 1/2 the hours next time as I will never again trust latex to adequately hide stained wood. ================================This last statement proves the poster is neither a professonal nor qualified to charge for any job, so I guess he just likes sucking off old people, charirty my ass, it's called a con job.
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