What sealant is used here?

[Robert Macy]

Where the AC mains romex goes through the hole in the 2x4 across the top of the studs and on up into the attic, there is some type of hardened reddish gunk placed around the cabling to plug the hole in the 2x4 and hold the cable rigidly in place.

My guess is that the purpose of the 'gunk' is to hold the cable, prevent critter intrusions, and provide insulation between hollow of interior wall and attic.

What is that compound?

Also, is there a similar, but more pliant, sealant? Just in case the cabling needs to be replaced and the pliant sealant will allow everything to be pulled out?

[Steve Barker]

it is the equivalent of great stuff, only the fireproof version. Some jurisdictions require it, otherwise you could just use the blue can great stuff, which is for windows and stays somewhat pliant.

[gfretwell]

This sounds like a SFR and there is no "fire stop" requirement between the living space and the attic. This is draft stopping.

[John Grabowski]

*It is a firestop caulk. The color denotes the rating. I think red is rated for 3 hours. They sell them in tubes at Home Depot where the caulk is.

[DerbyDad03]

Huh?

Just because someone asked about something means that they shouldn't do it?

The fact that OP *asked* about the sealant gives him a leg up on those that would have just pulled the cable without caring enough to learn about the task before attempting it..

Were you born with all of the knowledge that you have now - whatever amount that might be - ?

Do you ever have to ask about or investigate a situation before you work on a project or does it all just come naturally to you through some cosmic infusion?

[Evan]

I don't know about in your state/area but ANY penetration into a wall cavity or through a floor/ceiling MUST be fire stopped in my jurisdiction...

There are no exceptions... Every line voltage wire, low voltage wire or pipe must be fire stopped where it enters and exits a wall cavity... A wire penetrating the top plate of a wall to enter the attic is exiting that wall cavity and therefore must be fire stopped, the fact that it is going into unfinished space makes no difference...

~~ Evan

[Robert Macy]

Thank you for the URL! Their label says 'Fireblock' the can does look like that expand until it breaks stuff.

[Robert Macy]

Thanks for the 'heads up' on using that expanding stuff.

[Robert Macy]

Since I was shocked to NOT find any fireblocks between the 10 foot stud heights, the thought that this compound would be to block fire NEVER occurred to me.

[Robert Macy]

Thank you for the URL.

It looks like they have a 'non-messy' system wth solid little plugs.

[Robert Macy]

Thank you for identifying Home Depot. IBut it would be nice to have the copound a bit more flexible. That red stuff is like a rock set in there.

[Stormin Mormon]

I knew a fellow who foamed around his storm door. The expanding foam pushed the frame so much, the storm door would not close. Didn't help, much.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

Thanks for the 'heads up' on using that expanding stuff.

[Frank]

Over the years I've done some regulatory chemical consulting with them. They have some good products. Nice people to work with. Have no idea about the retail end.

[DanG]

It is very common to use expanding foam to plug those holes. Red putty sounds like fire caulk. You don't need fire grade caulk in a wood stud wall, but fellas probably had some if they did much commercial work. You could use any type of caulk - there is no requirement for anything, it is only performed to help prevent drafts and help the HVAC. If the holes are very large with a large annular space, it may be much easier to stuff them with rock wool.

[DerbyDad03]

Your friend used the wrong foam.

Dow Window and Door is made to be minimally expanding so as not to bow window or door frames.

I've used it on all my windows and doors and never had a frame problems. The only problem is when you use too much and it keeps expanding out for hours.

Dow also makes a minimal expanding foam for gaps and cracks. I haven't tried this one:

[gfretwell]

Perhaps you should learn the difference between fire stop, fire block and draft stop,

[Steve Barker]

Same in my area and they are going by the 2008 IBC

[Steve Barker]

Yep, that's why you gotta use the blue can stuff. And not over fill the cavity.

[John Grabowski]

Thank you for identifying Home Depot. IBut it would be nice to have the copound a bit more flexible. That red stuff is like a rock set in there.

*Duct seal (Also available at Home Depot in the electrical department) is more pliable and remains that way. However I don't know if it is fire rated. Duct seal is usually used to prevent infiltration of air or water. Maybe if you packed the hole with mineral wool and then used duct seal it would give you a decent fire stop.

[Stormin Mormon]

I've never heard of that. I guess my friend hadn't, either. Thanks for a, uh, GREAT idea.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

Your friend used the wrong foam.

Dow Window and Door is made to be minimally expanding so as not to bow window or door frames.

I've used it on all my windows and doors and never had a frame problems. The only problem is when you use too much and it keeps expanding out for hours.

Dow also makes a minimal expanding foam for gaps and cracks. I haven't tried this one: