What sealant is used here?

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Where the AC mains romex goes through the hole in the 2x4 across the top of the studs and on up into the attic, there is some type of hardened reddish gunk placed around the cabling to plug the hole in the 2x4 and hold the cable rigidly in place.
My guess is that the purpose of the 'gunk' is to hold the cable, prevent critter intrusions, and provide insulation between hollow of interior wall and attic.
What is that compound?
Also, is there a similar, but more pliant, sealant? Just in case the cabling needs to be replaced and the pliant sealant will allow everything to be pulled out?
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On 1/13/2012 7:44 AM, Robert Macy wrote:

it is the equivalent of great stuff, only the fireproof version. Some jurisdictions require it, otherwise you could just use the blue can great stuff, which is for windows and stays somewhat pliant.
http://greatstuff.dow.com/products/fireblock /
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Steve Barker
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Thank you for the URL! Their label says 'Fireblock' the can does look like that expand until it breaks stuff.
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On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 08:46:42 -0800 (PST), Evan

This sounds like a SFR and there is no "fire stop" requirement between the living space and the attic. This is draft stopping.
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On Jan 13, 1:17 pm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I don't know about in your state/area but ANY penetration into a wall cavity or through a floor/ceiling MUST be fire stopped in my jurisdiction...
There are no exceptions... Every line voltage wire, low voltage wire or pipe must be fire stopped where it enters and exits a wall cavity... A wire penetrating the top plate of a wall to enter the attic is exiting that wall cavity and therefore must be fire stopped, the fact that it is going into unfinished space makes no difference...
~~ Evan
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On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 13:18:44 -0800 (PST), Evan

Perhaps you should learn the difference between fire stop, fire block and draft stop,
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On Jan 13, 11:33 pm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Perhaps you should learn more about the building codes in use in other areas of North America before you type out bullshit in a Usenet posting...
It is not "draft stop" because that is entirely for energy codes, Fire Block ? Never heard that term used before as the proper way to refer to the passive fire protection method being discussed here is fire stop...
Your diatribe does not mitigate the fact that "great stuff" foam is not now, has never been NOR will ever be rated as a material allowable for use for fire stop purposes...
~~ Evan
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On 1/14/2012 12:29 PM, Evan wrote:

the orange can great stuff is.
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On 1/13/2012 1:18 PM, Evan wrote:

Same in my area and they are going by the 2008 IBC
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On Jan 13, 1:17 pm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Sorry, but your jurisdiction is apparently using an older version of code -- it is a requirement in most places which have adopted the latest building codes and could potentially be a requirement in your area soon as the code is disseminated from the source and trickles down and gets adopted by each enforcement jurisdiction...
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*It is a firestop caulk. The color denotes the rating. I think red is rated for 3 hours. They sell them in tubes at Home Depot where the caulk is.
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Thank you for identifying Home Depot. IBut it would be nice to have the copound a bit more flexible. That red stuff is like a rock set in there.
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Thank you for identifying Home Depot. IBut it would be nice to have the copound a bit more flexible. That red stuff is like a rock set in there.
*Duct seal (Also available at Home Depot in the electrical department) is more pliable and remains that way. However I don't know if it is fire rated. Duct seal is usually used to prevent infiltration of air or water. Maybe if you packed the hole with mineral wool and then used duct seal it would give you a decent fire stop.
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On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 07:05:07 -0500, "John Grabowski"

I am still curious why these guys think that penetration needs a "fire stop" rated assembly to plug the hole (cite please). This needs to be draft stopped if we are talking about 1 & 2 family dwellings unless it is living space above a garage. (a 1 hour assembly) Spray foam is a suitable draft stop unless there is a local code amendment requiring more.
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Huh?
Just because someone asked about something means that they shouldn't do it?
The fact that OP *asked* about the sealant gives him a leg up on those that would have just pulled the cable without caring enough to learn about the task before attempting it..
Were you born with all of the knowledge that you have now - whatever amount that might be - ?
Do you ever have to ask about or investigate a situation before you work on a project or does it all just come naturally to you through some cosmic infusion?
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On Jan 13, 9:25 am, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Thanks for the 'heads up' on using that expanding stuff.
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I knew a fellow who foamed around his storm door. The expanding foam pushed the frame so much, the storm door would not close. Didn't help, much.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .

Thanks for the 'heads up' on using that expanding stuff.
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On Jan 13, 6:49 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Your friend used the wrong foam.
Dow Window and Door is made to be minimally expanding so as not to bow window or door frames.
I've used it on all my windows and doors and never had a frame problems. The only problem is when you use too much and it keeps expanding out for hours.
http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/windowdoor.htm
Dow also makes a minimal expanding foam for gaps and cracks. I haven't tried this one:
http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/gapscracks.htm
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I've never heard of that. I guess my friend hadn't, either. Thanks for a, uh, GREAT idea.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
Your friend used the wrong foam.
Dow Window and Door is made to be minimally expanding so as not to bow window or door frames.
I've used it on all my windows and doors and never had a frame problems. The only problem is when you use too much and it keeps expanding out for hours.
http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/windowdoor.htm
Dow also makes a minimal expanding foam for gaps and cracks. I haven't tried this one:
http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/gapscracks.htm
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On 1/13/2012 3:49 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Yep, that's why you gotta use the blue can stuff. And not over fill the cavity.
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