Can't get snowblower going, and think it needs a new sparkplug, perhaps.
Thought I had a replacement spark plug for snowblower, but apperently do
Have a new one for the Lawnmower, though.
Any danger in trying it in the snowblower ?
What "might" happen" ?
Might piston at top dead center hit it, or... ?
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
Another thing to consider is plug heat range. If it is too hot or too
cold, engine may not run well. Always you can choose regular one or
hotter or colder one with same plug model. For temporary replacement if
it fits and not too long, I'd use it until correct one is available.
On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 4:21:22 PM UTC-6, Tony Hwang wrote:
Wake up Tony...that's what they were just talking about! Snowblower and Lawnmower spackplugs are virtually the same. I bought a snowblower that a kid put a car plug in...broke the camshaft and bent the valve. It's still working 22 yrs later.
If the mower one is longer, perhaps might
impact. Some times a wire brush will clean a
spark plug. Quick spray of ether or carb
cleaner will help rinse out the carbon fouling.
I've also used a stiff wire to scrape em out.
I use a give away key ring bent straight with
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
On Tue, 27 Jan 2015 11:17:59 -0500, Stormin Mormon
A friend who lives in NYC was forced to sell his Cadillac, for lack of a
place to park I think, and he gave me a spark plug cleaner.
You may have seen an add for these.
AC-powered, and filled with little glass pellets, it blows the glass
against the end of the plug and cleans them up nicely. Takes a minute
or two per plug. Some of the glass bits tend to stay between the
insulator and the shell but come out when tapped.
But with the hot sparks on cars these day, I never clean my plugs and
even if I had a gas garden tools, I'd need a bigger shop to keep this
thing availalbe. So I've only used it twice. (He included extra
pellets but haven't used them yet.)
I remember them. Long ago in another life, I used to take the plugs out
at 5000 miles, clean them and replace them at 10,000. Now they easily
last 100k. Heck, the last 5 cars I traded with original plugs, battery,
My 19 year old p[ickup with almost 3330,000km on it has had the plugs
changed - not sure about the battery - it's still an OEM battery but
may have been replaced before I got it. Valve covers have never been
off, original exhaust and rear brakes even.
When I started in the trade brakes seldom lasted more than 3 years of
easy driving, exhausts lasted a year or two at best and plugs were an
annual tune up item at best. If you made 100,000 miles without at
least one major overhaul you were doing VERY well.
the last 5 cars I traded with original plugs, battery,
I am still driving my 1968 Chevy K10 suburban 4WD, no power brakes or
steering, manual 4 speed. Runs good, had a 307 I believe but I had a 350
put in about 20 years ago--I have about 150,000 miles on it but may have
to retire it as I need a steering gear for it and they are hard to find.
I use it in the winter or as my fishing transportation in the summer.
I used to clean a lot of plugs with the Champion plug cleaner decades
ago - back when all engines were made of Cast Iron - and so were Chevy
pistons. The engines back then could survive the odd grain of sand or
glass bead going through - and seldom made 100,000 miles regardless.
Todays aluminum engines? I wouldn't THINK of using a sandblasted plug.
Particularly on today's plugs. Too much chance of stray beads staying
in the plug, coming out in the engine, and doing damage.
Wax the plug cleaner up and set it beside your restored tire inflator
in your "Man Cave" as a conversation piece.
And possibly burn up the engine if the plug is not the correct heat range
To the OP - clean that old plug up with a wire brush , open the gap just
enough to file the tip of the electrode flat (points file works swell) and
regap it . That should get you by until you can get a new plug - which you
should do as soon as you can - BUY TWO and put the extra where you can find
it . I have small plastic boxes (useta hold wet wipes at a nursing home)
that are dedicated to one type of machinery's small parts . One for the
chainsaws/weedeater , one for the tractor , one for electronic components
(voltage regs/resistors/caps) and another for OA tips/flux/etc .
Butter tubs work too ... yogurt cups , cottage cheese , any number of
small plastic containers from pill bottles to ice cream gallon tubs ,
they're all over the house if you look .
Good advice and one can estimate the heat range by simply comparing the two
If the new one looks the same and is gapped the same it should
/probably/ be all right.
However if the plug in there is not too bad though I'd clean and re-use.
The snow blower might just need to be primed
A very clear, well-illustrated page. I knew most of this stuff, but it
helps to see it written so clearly.
This is what it says if you use a plug that's too hot:
"When the center electrode reaches 950°C or higher, pre-ignition (early
ignition) occurs, meaning that the electrode serves as a heat source and
ignition occurs without a spark. Therefore, output falls and this can
reach the level of electrode wear and insulator damage."
Only mentions damage to the sparkplug, not the engine. The page is
from a spark plug company and they should know. I've never heard of
Denso Spark Plugs, so does that mean it's a faux page meant to trick us
into damaging our enignes?
On Wednesday, January 28, 2015 at 12:03:02 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
Denso is a major Japanese parts supplier, both to OEMS and aftermarket.
While they don't talk about engine damage, pre-ignition could damage
an engine itself, eg the pistons. There is also the issue of the
operating environment, ie is this a high performance, high compression
auto engine accelerating in a 110F desert or a lower compression snowblower
engine running at constant RPM when it's 20F ambient? IMO, the risk
of using a similar
looking sparkplug that fits, for an hour to clear snow is minimal.
To further reduce any risk, the OP could use the substitute plug to
see if he can get it running. Once running, put the original back in
and see if it too works. Probably not the plug anyway.
The big problem is pre-ignition can easily progress to detonation and
burn a piston. Not as likely on a snowblower in the winter as on a
dust-stuffed lawn mower in the summer - but not impossible,
Denso - that's short for NipponDenso - which is a very large Japanese
auto-electric company and one of 2 OEM manufacturers for Toyota spark
plugs. Not sure about present, but at least at one time in the past
NipponDenso was majority owned by Toyota. Toyota's second source for
plugs was NGK. I do tend to see more NGK than NipponDenso in the
North American built Toyotas.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.