Uncut spots with B&D electric lawnmower

My Black and Decker electric lawnmower leaves a lot of uncut spots, or more precisely narrow strips and little round areas. 12 amps. Model 525, the model which preceded the current model 575.
The blade is pretty sharp already, but I am sure I should sharpen it myself, and I will. I walk pretty slowly. Slower than I would if this weren't happeneing, but it still happens.
But I wonder if you all know any other reason this would happen?
This is a used mower, but in very good condition. It cuts well, and mulches well. I have it on mulch. When I was looking at sites that sold it, one person complained that it left parts uncut. I presume he had started with a new mower, but maybe not. He said it was easy enough to get them later with a weedwacker, but there are really a lot of them and I don't think it is easy. It would be easier to mow over each section twice.
Probably a mulching blade. I don't know how to tell by looking but I can describe it if necesary. And it does mulch.
It's not that I miss the area. The uncut area is often right in front of and right behind areas that are nicely cut, both "in front of" and "behind" based on the direction I am pushing the mower.
Thanks a lot.
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wrote:

    I would have to guess that the strips are due to having a deck that is wider than the cut area. You may need to overlap your cutting a little more. The other spots I suspect are due to less "lift" of the blade, so under certain conditions the grass may be lying flat below the blade.
    Gasoline mowers then to have more lift built into their design to provide a more even cut. Electrics tend to have less in an effort to get more mowing with less power consumption.
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I have a similar B&D electric. I find that I need 25% to 33% overlap to do a good job. 50% if the grass is rather wet. Also, mowing a little "long" seems to behave better -- less "tearing," so to speak. As to sharpening, I do it once a season. Just use a file, clamp the blade in your bench vise, and "draw file" ALONG the blade, maintaining the contour of the bevel. A fairly course "mill bastard" file works well. A little grease on the threads on the shaft help to keep it from getting corroded. Here in "Slower Lower" Delaware, it is quite flat. I have about 8,000 square feet, and can cut it in 1 1/2 hours, not pushing things too hard. Another 1/2 hour for trim, etc. I am quite pleased with the B&D electric mower. Got it refurbished for $99. Can't beat that. BTW, also lube the bearing for the wheels now and then. Heavy oil (SAE 80 gear oil) works well for me.
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On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 06:39:47 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Well, maybe. There were so many uncut areas, I probably didn't check that.

The grass looked pretty much the same. I have five broken gas lawnmowers, two of which have worked in the past two years, one of which probablyjust need one "jet" in the bowl cleaned out, even with a wire, or with solvent, and another that is probably same if it werent' so hard to get the carb off;
And a third that was practically new when they put it out on the curb. The wife said they had bought it new a year before and the and the store could never get it to run. Well neither could I but it's still almost new. :)
And two others.
And I want to start giving these away, but I have to wait I guess until I've figured out how to mow correctly with eeh electric one.
Tahks, and I'll tray to reply to professorpaul soon. but in case I don't. Thahnks paul.
You can see how tired I am, I cana barely reight.!

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wrote:

Are the wheel heights adjusted equally on all sides?
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Yes.
I usually don't pay attention to wheels but since it was the first time, I set them one notch from the highest.
But even if they weren't, I don't think that would account for these islands of uncut grass. Grass that is standing up straight.
They get cut the second time I go over the same spot.
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