I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?
You need to fill the pump and the piping all the way down to the
When was the last time the well produced? What was the flow rate at
What is the capacity of the pump? hp?
Or it you don;t know those answers....Gould Model Number?
Maybe the pump capacity far exceeds the well delivery capability (the
pump is removing water faster than the surrounding rock or soil can
and the pump is "starving"?
I did not remove the top cap on the well side and fill that with
water. I could try that. But there are also 2 brass plugs on the side
of the pump. Not sure what they are for.
As far as he history of the pump, I don't know. But I remember the
previous owner had a similiar pump, so I assume the well has
sufficient water supply.
From the plate , I can barely read the model # SKB713.
UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.
I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top, and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.
You do NOT need a checkvalve. If you filled the pipe with water you
must already have a footvalve which is the required item.
Have you pulled up the suction pipe to exam what is on the end? It
should be a footvalve and that could be crudded up such that it isn't
passing much water.
On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 06:15:07 -0700, Mikepier wrote:
Hmm, surely if it were filled you should at least get a brief full flow
just from the water you're primed the system with, even if something were
I'm not really familiar with wells either - that comment just seemed
Oh, I can confirm that there's no check valve at the top end of our well,
incidentally, but I've never had any need to try priming ours so can't
comment on experiences there (I did have it all off while doing some
plumbing for a couple of hours last year and it spluttered a bit after
switch on, but picked up after a couple of minutes and returned to normal)
Ours is a top-side pump though, with an 80' well and jet assembly, so
perhaps a bit of a different config to yours.
Check valves on the suction side of a pump are probably more of a problem than
on the pressure side. The OP is talking about a shallow well, with the pump
drawing the water up.
OP - Some pumps are self-priming, others are not. Which is yours?
Here is says it should have a check valve every 200 feet. I could have
been wrong about every 100 feet, mine may be every 200 or 100. I just
know there are a lot more than the one at the pump and the one up top
before the tank.
That's a different application. With centrifugal pumps a foot
valve is used at the end of the siphon pipe, and a check valve is
used post pump, if at all.
The foot valve keeps water in the pipe to aid priming of the pump,
the check valve provides initial restriction to flow to prevent
cavitation/introduction of air in impeller housing, and loss of
prime at start up (Both input/output of impeller has water present).
Submersible pumps use checks valves at 200ft intervals to prevent
excessive head pressure on the lower check valves (think of driving
a wedge into a crevice with 10 pounds of force versus 50 pounds of
force). Which option will be harder to get unstuck with a finite
amount of pressure to get it unstuck?
Yes, at that point I realized I was talking about the wrong type of
pump. Without a doubt I was wrong. I was replying to the comment
"> It also sounds like whoever installed all those checkvalves didn't > know what he was doing."
I assumed it was then realized I have a submersible pump, nothing like
the OP's setup, being that it is 800 or so feet deep. I suppose I
should not have assumed anything, after all, you know what they say....
If you have a way to apply water pressure to the inlet side pipes, do so while
you start the pump. When it starts to pump, shut off the inlet water and see if
it continues to pump. This will help flush any air in the system.
All I can tell you is if I pour water in the pipe to the top, it
eventually drains down to its standard level of 2 ft below the
basement floor, so I don't think I have a checkvalve in the vertical
pipe, or if I do, its defective.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.