Touhgest drill bit for metal

Hi, What is toughest drill bit for drilling many, many holes thru a bolt stuck in a confined space. I am trying to drill it into bits to break it off. There is no other means to get rid of it. Cobalt bit or any other better one? TIA,
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Perhaps you could describe the problem a little bit. There are easy outs and other methods of working on stuck bolts. There are even acids that might lend themselves.
If you break off a cobalt bit in your stuck bolt, things could be much worse.
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You're going to use drill BITS to break a bolt into BITS.... I think you are a BIT crazy ! or maybe pulling our legs a BIT. But whatever you do, be sure there are no dogs nearby, or you may get BIT. :)
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snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

Hi, Big Oops, sorry, I meant breaking a nut not a bolt.
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You can't use these?
http://www.nextag.com/nut-splitter/search-html?nxtg 990a24051b-078627AB54E6A954
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We'd really like some more details. What kind of a device are you repairing? How big a bolt, how big a nut, and what kind of bolt? Much, much, more detail.
The answer is likely to be carbide with diamond grit embedded in the tip.
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"Tony Hwang" < snipped-for-privacy@shaw.ca> wrote in message
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hi, It's so called spline type lug nut on a small Japanese car after market rim. The nut spline cap broke off(it was hollow tubing kinda thing, not solid metal) Now the tapered nut is in a recessed hole making it almost impossible to do anything. Time to put on winter tire/rim and I am stuck. Out of 5 lugs this one is giving me a big headache. Having almost no room to do anything, drilling was my idea. Think the El Cheapo lug was the cause. I was using air impact wrench. I suspect the cap was partially cracked on the side by road debris or something. It shouldn't break(shear) off like that. I was even thinking about using welding torch sacrificing the rim and/or stud. So far no snow yet, so I still have some time on my side.
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I bet you can get it with a screw extractor then.
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wrote:

Advance Auto parts sells an extractor for removing tapered "security" lug nuts,they come in a couple of different sizes.Saw them on my last visit,in the special tool section.(or was it Harbor Freight??? senior moment!)
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Well, lets think about this. You drill a hole in the end of the stud, and use a screw extractor. What do you REALLY think will be the result?
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"TimR" < snipped-for-privacy@aol.com> wrote in message
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the extractor breaks. (if the drill bit doesn't first.)
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Jim Yanik
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Yep, that's about what I had thought.
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"Jim Yanik" < snipped-for-privacy@abuse.gov> wrote in message
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how 'bout something like this:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
I believe they are sold at Sears as "Bolt-Out" I have used the smaller sizes with some success (stripped Allen head cap screws in recessed holes of a supercharger bracket in a really bad location; I was not looking forward to pulling the radiator and drilling.)
nate
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Hi, again. Anyhow, a couple ideas.
First -- down by the air hose, on the handle of the air wrench. There might be a knob. Make sure that's turned to the highest number, which is the highest torque.
Second -- Heat the lug wtih a torch, and then quick like a bunny, put the impact wrench on for several seconds. See if that helps.
Failing that, try a 25 inch breaker bar from Harbor Freight. Put the socket on, and swing the breaker bar off to the left, and press down on the end of the handle with your weight.
One time when I had a stuck on lug, I had to cut around the lug with a holesaw, 1 5/8 inch, and take the tire off that way. Remove the lug with vise grips. Yeah, sacrificed the rim, I know.
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Christopher A. Young;
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"Tony Hwang" < snipped-for-privacy@shaw.ca> wrote in message
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