Toilet water shutter-offer electrical valve


Is there anything made that will just shut off the water supply to the toilet after a flush? I got one of these toilets with the flapper and the flapper seat is on an angle, so I cant replace it with the old fashioned stopper and rod, which was always a better seal. I have replaced that flapper at least 5 times in the past year and the last time I got an expensive one. No matter what, it leaks, so my pump has to run every 15 minutes and worse yet it caused the overflow pipe to freeze solid on my sewer 3 times this winter so far. When I can afford it, a new toilet is going to be installed. I know I can remove the tank and change the whole asselbly, but this water saver toilet has always been a poor flusher anyhow and needs plunging after almost every use even after I have removed it and snaked it. It's just a lousy toilet no matter what. So, for now I have to shut off the supply valve after each use, and the tank is always emptied in a few minutes after. Instead of a new toilet, I plan to find a good used one that is not a water saver.
Anyhow, I was thinking of some sort of electrically operated valve that could be switched off as soon I am done flushing. Possibly even connected to the flush handle so as soon as the handle pops back up, the valve shuts off.
I dont think anything is made for that exact purpose, but maybe some sort of solenoid operated valve is available and could be put to use. Even with a new toilet, they all leak at least a little, so having a valve like this would save my pump and electric bill. I think they make electrically operated valves for gas, and possibly for radiators. Who knows what else I might be able to salvage one from????
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
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Yes -- the shutoff valve that should be in the supply line to the toilet, just above the floor.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Gerry Atrick wrote:

Maintaining toilets is hardly rocket surgery, Gerry.
Have you paid attention to the following two things:
1. Checked the surface of the flapper seat for defects, like "wire draw" grooves or significant corrosion? It could be a bad seat and not the flapper which is causing the leakage you're experiencing. There are replacement seats available which epoxy onto the existing seat.
2. Are you using a flap valve from the manufacturer of your toilet or just a generic replacement. On some toilets there can be a world of difference between them.
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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And if you want to replace the toilet with a used one anyway, why not just do it now? That sounds a lot easier and safer than trying to rig up plumbing to an electric water valve.
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On Jan 25, 1:10 pm, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Yes, you're going to find out that an electric water valve will be as expensive or more likely, MORE expensive than any used toilet.
Cripes a mighty, I've got a toilet that I'll gladly GIVE you to get it out of my house! It's a 1.6 gal/flush unit, but at least it doesn't leak and uses standard parts.
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On 25 Jan 2007 10:10:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I would if I knew where to get one. In spring we have lots of auctions and such and I will probably find one there. Until then, I dont have any place to get a used one. I'd like to permanently put an electrical valve in there to prevent ALL dripping from any toilet. They all leak at least a little. Those flappers are never 100% drip proof.
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I guess that means you still think a solenoid valve, sensing or timed switch and God knows what else this would take is 100% reliable and cost effective? Plus, if the flapper leaks, the toilet tank is going to be empty. After taking a whiz, are you supposed to then push a button and wait for it to fill?
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

No, but maybe he's going to keep the bathtub filled with a bucket nearby.
Is anyone besides me starting to think the OP was trolling? <G>
Jeff
Jeff
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On 25 Jan 2007 14:30:31 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

My tank is empty now, since I have to shut off the valve each time. I turn it on when I am on the toilet, flush when I finish, and turn it off again. It's a pain to reach way down there each time. If I dont go with the solenoid, I may just extend the pipe and valve above the tank so it's easier to reach, and will use one of those quarter turn lever valves rather than one I got to turn 3 or 4 turns.
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Wouldn't it be easier to just fix the toilet?
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Have a look in your phone book for building disposal yards , recycling etc.
You might even contact a plumber and see if hes doing any replacements soon.
Around my area a new basic toilet is about $70 from places like Menards or Lowes.
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