I want to put a two foot strip of tile around my wood stove at my cabin. It
is going to go on top of plywood or particle board, or whatever wood is
under the carpet.
Do one use an adhesive or grout to get the tiles to stick to the wood? Or
adhesive, then grout the joints. And what keeps the grout joints from
working loose as the floor flexes? Is there flexible grout?
I'd use "wonderboard", the 1/2" cement-fiberglass board available
everyhere, as underlayment for the tile. Not good to tile over wood, as
it expands and contracts with moisture and will eventually cause the
tile to work loose.
"In 1964 Barry Goldwater declared: \'Elect me president, and I
will bomb the cities of Vietnam, defoliate the jungles, herd the
You have carpet in a cabin?
It's a cabin. Get 3 big inch-thick pieces of slate or granite the right
size, and just set them in place and let gravity do the work. Hold them in
place, if needed, with a strip of hardwood screwed to the floor around the
outside. More important, what is under the stove and behind it? In the old
days, we used to use sheets of asbestos board, looked and worked about like
the current cement backer board. Rather than a ring, I'd seriously look at
pulling the stove loose long enough to put a continuous something
underneath, the better to have no cracks to catch ashes or sparks, and to
make cleanup easier.
But if you have your heart set on tile- same rules as tiling a bathroom-
floor has to be stiff, usually done by screwing down a layer of cement
backer board. In the old days, they framed the floor an inch or so lower
there, and put down a mortar bed with chicken wire in it, and laid the tile
over that. Some people do get away with using mastic for ceramic, but I'm
really not sure what they use for grout to keep it from cracking.
The floor in that corner of the room is four inches thick of concrete. I
believe it is a form poured base for a wood burning stove that is then set
in place once the cabin is framed and flooring installed. It is like a
square with one corner triangle trimmed off. Carpet comes up to the
concrete base. I want to make a two foot strip of tile between the concrete
and tile. Back wall is natural stone about six feet out each direction from
the corner. Sorry I wasn't clear.
The corner that the stove sits in is pretty safe, having a concrete base and
Here's the *right* way to do the job, however you may opt to do
Since you have two floor types meeting (concrete and wood) there will
be potentially more flex in the floor at that particular spot and the
floor should be stiffened before applying tile.
You need to first clean the area you're going to tile thoroughly. Put a
coat of thinset (mortar) down with a 1/4" trowel, then place
hardibacker or cement board (I prefer hardibacker, much easier to work
with) down over the thinset while it's wet. Screw down the hardibacker
in the indicated locations on the board (every 6") with special screws
(designed to penetrate the cement board/hardibacker and countersink
Now after waiting at least 24 hours, apply another coat of thinset with
the same trowel you used before over the hardibacker and set your tile.
(Of course, this assumes you have already laid out your tile pattern
first.) Wait 24 hours or more before grout.
Now that's the *right* way to do the job and it's the way I do *ALL* my
tile floors. To me, the right way is the only way. Sure saves trouble
Steve B wrote:
We're talking about 20 sf that will not even be walked on. I'm going to
glue it down to the wood, grout the joints, and put a strip of extrusion to
cover up the carpet edge.
No need for rocket surgery here.
Hmmm I never thought of it as "rocket science" or "brain surgery" or
"rocket surgery" as you put it. Speaking of mixed metaphors, you never
mentioned that the floor wouldn't be walked on in your first post - if
that's the case, you might get away with Mastik and modified grout, but
beware, walking on it isn't the only means of movement. Floors expand
and contract with temperature and moisture changes. Wait a few months
and look at your grout joints and you will notice little cracks all
along the tile, and eventually the grout will crack too. But then
again, you don't really care... it's just a cabin.
Steve B wrote:
Wrong again. It's not just a cabin. It's MY cabin. An out of body
experience that borders on the time line dimensions of the Twilight Zone.
But, yes, it's just a piece of two foot strip of tile I want to put down to
keep the hot ashes from making black spots in the polyester berber carpet.
The only time it is trod on is to put logs in the fire, or to clean up. Not
a common walkway.
It is not JUST any old border, but one that I want to select just the RIGHT
tile, and put it down to complement the ambience of the room. Rough sawn,
knotty pine, slight smell of PineSol, mothballs, all that goes with a summer
If it were " just a cabin ", things would be much different.
I'm getting ready to post photos to a website, and to
alt.binaries.photos.original, and, as you will see, it's pretty cool.
I did the same thing at my cabin. I put down 1/2" ceramic tile over
plywood , glueing it down with construction adhesive, grouting the
joints, then trimming the outside edges with quarter round. Been in use
for 12 years now with no cracks of any kind.
A friend I just had dinner with said the same thing. This guy is a retired
contractor. That's what he said. Put it down with Mastic or Liquid Nails,
leave space for grout, grout, then trim it out with carpet capping.
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