Taping Drywall

I'm connecting new boards to existing wall and ceiling boards. Hopefully, not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape between the old and new boards or is there some better way?
Kevin
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You have to re-tape. Tip- if you are connecting tapered edges of new sheetrock to cut/ untapered edges, taper the old edges by crushing them a little with a hammer/ mallet. This way, when you add mud and tape, you will be filling a gap, rather than building a bulge. You will be doing that anyway with extra coats, but easier to feather it out if you don't overdo it at the outset.
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On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:23:52 -0800, Sev wrote:

I'll taper and then tape them. It's my first major sheetrock job so I'm learning as I go though I watched a pro doing it once. Just didn't catch him while he was taping. How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to fit.
Thx, Kevin
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Kevin, don't try crushing the butt edge to make a tapered edge. Crushing the edges separates the paper from the gypsum and down the road at some point you'll see it through the mud. When you hang the rock and you have defects you cut the loose paper away then fill and tape as needed. All you're doing by crushing edges is creating defects. Don't crush, pre-fill the joint so you don't have that ledge, then finish as a butt joint. As far as your elec boxes are concerned, if the cover plates hide the gaps you're fine. They also make jumbo cover plates that hide more. Otherwise you need to pre-fill the gaps then flat tape and finish.
Tim
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wrote:

Not correct -- see my other posts in this thread.
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Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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1/4" is sloppy but still acceptable. 1/2" is not acceptable -- way too big a gap. Fill that with joint compound (the setting type, that you mix with water, not the pre-mixed stuff).
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Oops, spoke too soon. Just looked it up: 1/4" is not acceptable either. Per National Electrical Code, Article 314.21, the maximum acceptable gap around a box is 1/8".
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:34:30 -0800, pakdog wrote:

http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm
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I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of acutally applying the tape.

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When you apply the tape if you use fiberglass it is easier but the most important thing is, put a coat of mud on it cut the edges then wipe it down smooth leave it to dry after three coats it will look good, do not leave any edges or it will be a sanding nightmare. Oh Yea do not crush the edges with a mallett that was a joke. I'm repeating it... put your tape on apply a uniform coat of mud along the joint cut the edges off both sides of the mud wiping the excess back in your pan, then pull your knife along the joint and wipe it smooth let it dry do two more coats same way wipe it tight every time. when it's ready to sand you will only need brush it down a bit I have a tutorial on wall repair that might help.
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John F. wrote:

The section on 1st coat for butt joints shows the tape in the diagram.
R
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