Well it finally happened as I expected it to. My Zoller sump pump is going to need a new float switch. I managed to get it working for this evening, and will tackle the repair tomorrow. I will more than likely replace the switch this time. However, does anyone out there have a recommendation for a pump other than Zoller that will not need the damned micro switch replaced every two years!
Roanin
Zoller are good pumps, maybe you just got a lemmon. You could always use a piggy-back float switch
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If you buy a piggy-back float switch, make sure it cannot hang up on anything inside the sump if the cable clamp should work itself loose due to vibration over time. Then at the same time buy another pump and switch and put that unit in the sump also, with a T for the discharge, and a flapper switch in each line befopre the T. If you have it in the basement right next to the existing pump, it will double the life of the current pump without even running, If you don't have a spare, you can assume the present pump will die on the rainiest night in 5 years just after 11pm when the stores close. You can set the float on the back-up unit to come on at a higher level than the first pump. That way, if the first pump dies, the second one will run and take care of any possible problems. Covers everything except a power failure.
If you buy a piggy-back float switch, make sure it cannot hang up on anything inside the sump if the cable clamp should work itself loose due to vibration over time. Then at the same time buy another pump and switch and put that unit in the sump also, with a T for the discharge, and a flapper switch in each line befopre the T. If you have it in the basement right next to the existing pump, it will double the life of the current pump without even running, If you don't have a spare, you can assume the present pump will die on the rainiest night in 5 years just after 11pm when the stores close. You can set the float on the back-up unit to come on at a higher level than the first pump. That way, if the first pump dies, the second one will run and take care of any possible problems. Covers everything except a power failure.
Yes I have 2 spare pumps already. And yes the Zoller pump is a very good pump, just the switches suck. This is not the first one that has gone bad. I had another one on the last house do the same thing. As for the second pump in the pit, I have a batter back up one in there now. Looks just like the
3800 GPH Rule that I have in my boat!. Not sure if I can put in another powered one. Will ponder it here. R
And here I thought I was the only one busting Zoeller switches every other year.
Great pump though, been using mine for >20 years, currently on a cycle timer (I turn it on when I see standing water).
One of these years I'm going to hook up a better method, but I haven't gotten that round tuit yet.
Jon
OK explain this one, I installed a brand new water Ridder 2 Model WM48-C .25HP 48-0005 in its place temporarily until I could get the switch, however, it would not pump the water up to the ceiling of about 7'-8'. Is this normal? the specs on the box seem to indicate that it has almost the same specifications as far as lift and capacity. I had planned on using this pump in case the M53-D went down. I installed a check valve on the pump body as is the case with the M53. When I disconnected the pipes at about the
2' level, there was water pumping out of the pipe, but did not look very forceful. I tried it with a Flotec 1/3HP pump with the same results. The M53 works fine. Would the output of the check valve being 1-1/4" cause this? I want to have a spare in case of failure and so far I am stumped.
I doubt the check valve is the cause. Even if it was only a 1/4 inch pipe, the back pressure on the pump would be the same if there is no actual water flow. So, either the pump has large interior cleances so that it can't lift 7 feet, or the manufacturer has delusions of grandeur for its products. I would contact them on Monday and complain and see what they say.
Zoeller is good, but short cycles are not good for pump and switch. How often does it run and how long is cycle. It is best for longest pump life to adjust the float to get the longest cycle, meaning to empty the pit then allow it to completely fill, maybe the pit is to small and fills to fast, I have a near 300 gallon pit and the pump is maybe 80 years old, cycle run time can be 6 hrs off then 10 minutes on. The little plastic 20 gallon pits can make you burn up a pump from short cycling. A Pedistal pump can take up less room and be easier to adjust for complete filling, and most important the bigger the pump the more it will short cycle. Startup is the hardest part of a pumps job, the starting surge is when alot of wear occurs. Im not sure about this but its possible low voltage or poor wiring could stress everything more by not allowing full voltage to the motor on startup. Talking to pump pros like Zoeller would get you the best info.
I didn't like the short cycling of my 1/2HP pump so I installed a 1/4hp. Worked great! Nice long run times, no short cycling. I also put the bigger one back in the hole up on a cement block as a safety in case the small one broke or couldn't handle the amount of water. It never ran so I took it with me when I moved. I don't know why I took it with me, I'm in a double wide!
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