Stackable Maytag Washer/Dryer Repair Question

We have a stackable Maytag washer/dryer, at least 7 years old. Model number is LSE7806ACE.
It's developed some symptoms, and I'm hoping someone here can assist with a diagnosis.
1. The washer has stopped agitating. While the washer timer will still cycle, the only activity is the filling of the tub. Once it reaches the preset water level, the washer simply sits there, and does nothing until the timer cycles down to the end of the chosen cycle.
2. By advancing the washer timer, I can sometimes get the drum to start spinning (which will activate the pump and drain the tub). This is usually right at the very end of one of the cycles. But if I'm just a little off one way or another, the drum will stop spinning. It has to be just right to kick in the spinning. But no matter what I do, I cannot get the washer tub to agitate.
3. Power doesn't seem to be the issue, as there is power running the washer timer, the spin cycle (to a degree), and the dryer, which works just fine.
4. I took out the washer timer and examined and cleaned the various mechanical contacts; all are clean, so it's probably not a bad connection with the washer timer or a faulty washer timer.
Based upon the above, do you have any ideas on what the problem might be? We've called in a service technician, but I'd like to have an idea as to what might or might not be causing the problem.
Thanks for any comments you may have!
Eric
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P.S. Serial Number is 15935514UF, which I believe means it was manufactured in 1998, March. http://www.applianceaid.com/age_maytag.html
Starting to think this might be a frozen transmission? If so, hopefully at least the parts are covered by the 10-year warranty.
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Eric wrote:

Hi,
Water level control appears to be working, water is shut off and the power is directed to the timer to tell it to go and if the timer is moving/advancing, the WLC should be fine.
No power from the timer to the motor to tell it to go. Power to the motor but the motor is not capable of running. Bad lid switch. Wiring between any of the above. These would be prime suspects.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Thanks, Jeff,
Is there a way to figure out whether the lid switch is the culprit other than by replacing it? I note that when I lift the lid, the timer stops cycling.
In any case, I'll let you know what the technician has to say this weekend.
Eric
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Lid switches are usually single pole, so if _anything_ happens at all when activated, it's probably good.
If you have a voltmeter, you could check it for continuity, but if it only has two connectors/wires going to it, the timer stopping proves it's okay.
If it were me, I'd put a voltmeter on the motor and see if it's getting power when it should be running. That will determine whether it's electronics/switch/wiring, or, a motor/transmission problem.
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Eric wrote:

G'day,
Can be ohmed for continuity as per the wire diagram that comes with the machine.

That is a good sign tha tit is ok.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Hi, everyone, here's the answer:
It turns out it was a bad washer timer after all. The technician traced power through the entire electrical diagram and everything pointed to the timer. As a final test, the tech ended up jumping a contact and -- lo and behold -- the washer came to life. So, we replaced it and everything started working again without any problems. Everything else in the washer checked out.
I thought I had cleaned the old timer's contacts pretty thoroughly, but once the new timer was in, I disassembled the old timer and found that there was another set of contacts, very hard to see before disassembly. One set of these hidden contacts was charred pretty badly (thus causing a critical circuit from closing) and was definitely the cause of the problem -- the charred contacts were the same ones that were jumped during the diagnosis process. [By charring I mean the same sort of contact degradation that occurs with a spark plug over time.]
Bottom line cost: Technician's service call and diagnosis $113.00, plus new washer timer $80.00 (purchased locally).
Thanks everyone for your comments and replies.
Eric
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