Depends on how restrictive the flow control in the shower head is. I know I wouldn't want it dripping behind my walls.
Bob
Depends on how restrictive the flow control in the shower head is. I know I wouldn't want it dripping behind my walls.
Bob
Well, I did it. The nipple has been cut to length, rethreaded, and used to install the elbow on the shower wall. However, I won't say it was easy. The main problem is the hand-held dies have a guide collar that the pipe enters through before reaching the die proper. This means there is only a little over an inch sticking out to grip, and most of that is threaded. In order to get a good grip w/o damaging the threads I fitted a brass cap I happened to have. Initially I grabbed it in a vise, but I'm afraid my vise and workbench were no match for the force it takes to cut the threads as the length of engagement grows. Finally gripped it with a pipe wrench. Of course this tightens the cap far beyond normal, so getting it off after the threads were cut was tough too. Went through this several times before getting enough good threads for a good fit at the shower wall. Glad I'm not a plumber!
thanks for all the help.
Ed
Right. There will always be some pressure drop across any kind of flow restriction, and a spray nozzle could be considerable, I would think, especially low flow showere heads. Also, people will often put a valved branch fitting on a shower gooseneck for a hand-held shower hose and wand. If later someone attaches a wand that itself has a shut-off valve, full line pressure can be on all the joints in there. I'm familiar with this problem from personal experience, including some ruined plaster.
Ed
That is called a nipple chuck. You are an the right track.
Stretch
A flow restrictor shower head can cause enough pressure in a showerhead elbow to cause a poor joint to leak. I had this at my own house at one time.
Not a problem most taper thread dies will cut "Running" threads on the pipe if you cut a longer threaded section, and then on to the very end of the threads it will be tapered ( taper length on 3/4" pipe is about 5/8" ) So just tell them to stop the cutting where you would have ended for the distance between the threads on the 3.25" nipple i.e. about 2"
William...
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