Anyone have an idea about the length of an anode rod in an A O Smith
Model FSG 40 propane gas water heater?
My heater is 5 years old and I was just curious about the length in case
I do decide to replace it.
The tank is a 40 gal and is 53" tall (including the burner compartment
underneath) and I only have a little more than 3 feet above the heater
to be able to remove a rod straight out without having to undo sweated
plumbing work to move or tilt the heater. Do they usually extend all the
way to the bottom of the water tank, or are shorter?
I checked at the A O Smith site and was able to find the PDF parts list
for my specific heater, which document is in poor shape, with some parts
of part numbers missing or unprinted in the document. Additionally,
there are different anode rod numbers listed under headings like; SMR
S44, SMR S33, SMR K32, SMR S4, etc. There is no SMR info printed on my
No big deal at the present. I was just reminded of it because of an
anode rod mentioned another thread.
On 12/8/2004 2:16 PM US(ET), Ray took fingers to keys, and typed the
Yes, I know about articulated rods, but I am concerned about removing
the old one first. I was asking is anyone knew the length of the one I
have. If it is only 3 feet or so long, then there will be no plumbing,
or even an articulated rod necessary. If it's longer, then it will
require me to undo plumbing.
Looking at the plumbing of the heater I have, I may just bite the bullet
and unsweat the plumbing and replace the globe valves with ball valves.
The globe valves were installed in 1986 and were last operated in 1999
when the heater was replaced. I always get a little anxious when
operating a globe valve that hasn't been touched for years.
if it's not good anymore, it will simply not be there as it will have
dissolved over time. so the answer is: it will be of zero length. if it's
not all gone, then it doesn't need replacement, or if you want to replace it
anyway because it is partially gone, it will be really corroded and easy to
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 14:12:19 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
Well, there should always be the base steel rod with the sacrificial metals
eaten away. If there is nothing left, consider replacing the tank as you've
neglected replacing the rod waaaay too long and corrosion has already started
in the tank.
Well, not necessarily. As the rod gets eaten, it's effectiveness becomes less
and less. Once it's gone completely, you've already been eating the tank.
Again, you should never wait until the rod is completely gone since the steel
inner shaft is not part of the sacrificial material.
In theory, if you replace the rod at optimal times, your tank should never
When pulling the old one up, you will have to cut it as you go (if clearance
is an issue). You should wrap a rag around the rod at the opening and have a
helper hold it at the rag with pliers while you cut sections. You don't want
that baby dropping back in the tank or you'll have a much bigger job on your
I saw that episode too and was plesantly surprised! I will need to replace my
rod probably around spring time and was wondering how I was going to do it.
Now I know it will be a piece of cake!
The new rod is just in pieces and almost "hinged". When you take the old rod
out, cut it as you go.
You may find it's one heck of a job to bust it free. You'll probably
have to find some way to keep the whole tank from rotating with the
torque often required to "bust the rust".
Others have suggested applying penetrating oil a few days before you try
and budge it, and someone remarked that standing a can full of ice cubes
on the rod plug for a while to shrink it and crack the stuff holding it
in can help.
I have an A O Smith Model FCG 40 natural gas water heater. It sounds
like your tank has the same dimensions as mine.
Last month I replaced the magnesium anode rod. The old one, nearly down
to its steel core, was right about 39 to 40 inches in total length. You
should have ZERO problem removing your old rod (But see below.) -- it
easily will bend enough for 36" overhead clearance.
I replaced mine with a 33" magnesium one that I got on eBay from an
outfit (Inland Marketing -- eBay Id "inmain") in Calgary. They are still
available, if you can't find one in stock on the A O Smith site.
The most challenging part of the job was loosening the old rod. I would
HIGHLY recommend using a dose of "Liquid Wrench" and an impact wrench.
I forgot to mention that my water heater is a little over FOUR(4) years
old. So you might consider checking your anode.
However, I DO use a water softener and keep the temp on "B" (approx. 140
degrees F); so perhaps my water is more aggressive than yours.
On 12/9/2004 9:32 AM US(ET), Leroy Mowry took fingers to keys, and typed
They appear to be globe valves rather than gate valves due to the bulged
I mentioned in another thread that if I had to undo plumbing that I
would replace them with ball valves, as I have done with every valve
that I have had to replace or install so far.
I just looked at the eBay item again and noticed that the description
states that the rod is ALUMINUM. The one I got was MAGNESIUM, as
indicated by a little "bump" on the hex head.
I don't know if that makes a difference to you. Generally, the aluminum
ones are priced lower than the magnesium ones but the eBay price of that
anode is the same as it was for mine.
Maybe you can get a better deal on the A O Smith website.
I recently replaced my 15-year old Rheem water heater. When it was 7
years old I tried to replace the anode, but couldn't hold the heater
body from turning. Now, with it removed from the system and ready for
the scrap heap, I tried more aggressively. I put my 1/2" drive breaker
bar with a 3' pipe over it, on the anode. I inserted a 2x4 between the
inlet and outlet nipples, then squeezed the two levers together. The
anode rod came right out, with a loud crack. Don't think I'd recommend
this for a connected water heater, as you're just as likely to break
off the nipples!
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