Snow Blower Seems To Have Lost Power ?

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12 HP Honda single - BCS walkbehind, single-stage snowblower attachment.
Crude as it is, this thing has always been something of a beast.... chewing it's way through all kinds of stuff.
Had it out for a couple hours today in 18-24" of the white and fluffy... and it seems to me like it's only putting out maybe 1/2 or 2/3 of it's usual power.
Along with that, something has frozen in the throttle linkage so it only goes full-bore.... got it in the garage thawing out right now.
Assuming the throttle linkage is a separate/unrelated issue, can anybody suggest what I am looking for to explain the power loss ?
No smoke, so I am guessing I haven't broken a ring...
--
Pete Cresswell

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(PeteCresswell) wrote:

That throttle issue may be the cause . It may over-rev at no load and still not get full throttle when under load .
--
Snag



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wrote:

Likely the frozen throttle , the governor is not responding to load
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On Sat, 23 Jan 2016 17:47:30 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I was gonna say the same thing.
Warm it up, spray cable with a silicone lube. (or replace cable).
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On 1/23/2016 2:44 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

My first thoughts are to examine the simple things. Air filter? Fuel filter? Water in the fuel? Always inspect the spark plug. Oil level full?
Online troubleshooting manual maybe out there for you? Did you read your own manual that came with the machine?
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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On Sat, 23 Jan 2016 18:25:16 -0500, Stormin Mormon

No air filter on snow blowers, generally
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On Saturday, January 23, 2016 at 7:49:28 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I'm glad you said "generally". ;-)
I don't like that this guy says "typically".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZnkiCDlXQk

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On Sat, 23 Jan 2016 18:00:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

If it has a "snowblower" engine it has no filter and has a preheat box in it's place. B&S SnowKing is a good example, and the Techumseh HS series another. The Honda and Yamerhammer blowers also have no filter.
Any blower with an air filter is highly likely to run poorly if at all in "typical" winter weather while blowing snow.
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On Saturday, January 23, 2016 at 9:02:40 PM UTC-6, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Snow King is Tecumseh or LCT not Briggs.
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On Sat, 23 Jan 2016 19:12:11 -0800 (PST), bob_villain

Sorry - you are right - Tecumseh Snow king - Can't remember the Briggs designation on the winter duty L Head..
The new Briggs IHV's may be using "general duty" intakes.
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On Saturday, January 23, 2016 at 10:02:40 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

B&S SnowKing? I don't think that's a good example, since it doesn't exist.

I know...I was just playing around, but they (it?) are out there.
I look at some of the other videos that that guy did trying to figure out what kind of snow blower that was. In another video he explained how to adjust the auger *chain*.
One of the comments below the video read:
"John how about tips on a snow blower that was built in this century?"
Now that's funny!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnKZj-vxK-0

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Per snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca:

That's an interesting observation for me - because this thing is basically a multi-purpose walk-behind tractor... so it the engine does have an air filter.
(BCS.... poor build quality + poor design + a design that never got tweaked for the inevitable bugs after release)
It's the next day now and it's thoroughly thawed out from sitting in a heated area all night.
I'm going to fire it up and see what happens.
If there the power is still lacking, I'll start taking things apart.
If the power drops off again, I'll pull the air filter and see what happens.
Thanks for the insights.
--
Pete Cresswell

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Per (PeteCresswell):

Yup.... Miracle cure. Back to full power and responsive throttle.
But now it is surging most of the time and occasionally backfiring on full throttle.
This thing must be 10 years old and has never had points or plug replaced.
Points/plug would be the likely cause, right ?
--
Pete Cresswell

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Per (PeteCresswell):

Oops.... should have read <http://static.ddmcdn.com/pdf/how-to-repair-small-engines.pdf before I wrote that.
"Engine misfires under load".... Looks like a few hours of entertainment coming up....
--
Pete Cresswell

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(PeteCresswell) wrote:

I'd try running some Seafoam or similar through it . There's been a discussion going on about surging over at the Kohler Engine group , consensus is it's likely caused by a lean condition at full throttle . If yours has an adjustable main jet try opening the screw a quarter turn and see what that does . My little Rusty Tractor surges too , I just read about this and haven't had a chance to try the adjustment . It didn't do this until after I rebuilt the motor ...
--
Snag



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On 1/25/2016 8:34 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

Surging usually means rusty spring on the throttle mechanism. (Learned that in a small engine repair course.)
Unsure about the backfiring.
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On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 08:59:46 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Too lean will cause both. Don't screw with the governor unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing.
Being an "old" machine it will have an adjustable high speed jet as well as an adjustable low speed jet.
Crank the high speed jet out 1/4 turn or so and see what happens.
If it surges at idle you may need to crank the idle mix screw out.
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wrote:

More likely water in the gas - it'll fart and backfire like crazy from being too lean. Out some "sea foam" in and open the main jet 1/4 turn. After running the sea-foam through you MAY be able to turn the jet screw back in again,
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wrote:

First off, lube that cable while its warm. After 10 years, new plug, points and condenser is a good idea. You might also have crud in the fuel bowl on the carburator. A complete carb rebuild would be the best, but at least remove the bowl and clean out the crud. If a fuel filter exists, replace it.
Surging is often the result of the governor needing adjustment, but could also be caused by insufficient fuel getting to the engine. I'd suggest doing the (above) things to the carb first, and adjusting the carb too. Then if that dont do it, get the factory specs for adjusting the governor (and carb adjustments).
Backfiring is a result of the timing being off. On a small engine, that is set by proper afjustment of points and making sure the flywheel is positioned correctly (no sheared key), and the correct gap exists between the magneto and the flywheel. (a sheet of newspaper is about right).
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On Monday, January 25, 2016 at 4:56:52 PM UTC-6, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moc wrote:

You have to go back 35+ yrs to find points and condensers on small engines! Sheared keys are mainly a mower problem.
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