I have a 5 year old Tamko (25 year warrenty) roof where the shingles seem to have raised up little bit in some places. Also I have noticed that many places the shingles seem to be easy to pull up and especially along flashings while other areas the shingles are solid really solid and stuck down. I now have a water leak and can't find it, but worse yet I'm afraid there is a problem with my whole roof. Does this sound like the shingles are failing. I have also noticed a light cellophane kind of wrapping coming off the bottom of some of the shingle.
As you can tell I'm no roofer but can any one give me some helpfull information as to whats happening.
on shingles that arent stuck down , i put roofing tar or silicone under them . some times a leak is caused by rain blowing under a shingle, or arond a flashing that needs retarred,. also take your time and look for nail holes or nails comming up thru the shingles. you can tar or silicone the holes . on nails comming up thru i pull the nail, put in a long stainless deck screw and tar or silicone over the hole. lucas
forgot to say, that celofane is over the tar of the shingle to keep em from sticking together prior to appliction. many a roofer said the heat from the sun will cause the tar to go thru it and stick after application..a couple roofers say they take off the celafane prior to application so it is sure it will stick ..if you got some that arent sticking and have the celafane on them ,peel it off and retar shingle down.lucas
As a wild-ass guess, I think that your shingles came with a little strip of adhesive on the underside that was covered with a plastic strip labeled "do not remove", to keep them from gluing themselves together during shipment, and the people who put your roof on left the plastic in place, which prevents the tabs from sticking themselves down.
Probably you can solve the shingle-uplift problem by putting a one SMALL dot of roofing adhesive in the middle of the bottom edge of each tab.
The plastic release strip runs longituidinally along the middle of the shingle on the underside. Its function is to keep the shingles from sticking together in the package. The adhesive dots are in the same position on the top of the shingle. When the shingle is installed there are five inches between the two. It couldn't possibly affect the sealing of the tabs.
The unsealed shingles being along flashings should tell you that the flashing is either between the tabs on succesive shingle course, such as step flashing, or under the shingles, such as valley flashing, which is causing the shingles to bridge and not make full contact.
A dab of roof cement is all that is needed to hold the tab in place.
Do not go crazy with the roofing cement as that will most likely cause more problems than it solves. Caulking or sealing without locating the leak will mask the leaks location, possibly only seal it temporarily, and makes further investigation and repairs much more difficult.
Tracing a leak can be difficult. Start by working your way up the roof slowly with a hose. Do not spray water up and under the shingles until you have eliminated the normal direction of water flow as the reason for the leak. If the leak only happens in windy conditions, or torrential rains, determine which direction the wind blows at those times when the roof leak is most noticeable. The leak won't work its way up the roof slope, but it can run laterally as well as down. It depends on the roof construction, vapor barriers, etc.
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