My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the
auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator
I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I
had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?
I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a
claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3
seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows
what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let
those people talk to customers.
As other say SL is the newest level oil and I expect exceeds all
I myself use nothing but 5W30 Mobil 1 in my Honda Generator and all
other air cooled engines. Air cooled engines usually run hotter and
Synthetics can take a lot more heat without breaking down. Another
advantage is that synthetics don't need the Viscosity Improvers (that
don't provide much lubrication). Don't worry about the 5W
classification. That means that at 32 F it has the same visosity as
straight 5 weight at that temperature. That is thicker than the oil
is when it is at operating temperature.
There are many web sites that get into extensive details about oil.
The "S" means Spark (gasoline) [opposed to C which means compression
(diesel)]. The second letter is 100% backward compatible, that is the later
letters (what will be do when they hit Z?) The later oils can do
everything the earlier ones did and more.
For air cooled engines, it's important to use a good quality oil.
Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled. My fav is
Castrol. So a good name brand is more important than the S
rating. Other good brands I like are Penzoil, Mobil, and Exxon.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
Any engine needs a oil of at least the quality specified...air-cooled or no.
As for the name on the can, if it meets a specified API/SAE grade, it
meets the grade. The rest is advertising hype for the most part.
That said, there are a few oils I _won't_ use -- QS is one. No way to
prove it really had anything to do with it, but I had a Chevy 350 throw
a rod w/ it -- when opened it up, the top of the head was 2 inches deep
in sludge and blocking the oiling holes so it wasn't getting any oil at
all down no's 7 & 8 and the rest were ready...never overheated, always
changed on schedule, etc., etc., ... But, at <50k, it had to have
complete rebuild. I've run those engines routinely for 150k or more and
that's the only one ever to have had an early failure.
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