SF versus SL 10W-30 oil.

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My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator also?
I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?
I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3 seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let those people talk to customers.
Thanks.
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If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise read the manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.
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wrote:

made for years.
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Exactly. SL includes SF.

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jim wrote:

That recommendation is a few years out of date. Many if not most small engines manufactured today are designed for multi weight oil.
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Joseph Meehan

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Briggs and Stratton reccomends.... HD30 weight for summer, and 10W30 for all year round use.
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Christopher A. Young
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For what that is worth...
wrote:

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SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified. You see, "L" comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards compatible.
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But what if the engine isn't running backwards?
:)
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The engine doesn't have to run backwards. Just put the bike in Reverse.

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In that case just use 80w90
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Or 03w01? That should be backwards compatible.
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Then you'd need LS oil, or ES or FS oil. Maybe even GS.
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As other say SL is the newest level oil and I expect exceeds all previous.
I myself use nothing but 5W30 Mobil 1 in my Honda Generator and all other air cooled engines. Air cooled engines usually run hotter and Synthetics can take a lot more heat without breaking down. Another advantage is that synthetics don't need the Viscosity Improvers (that don't provide much lubrication). Don't worry about the 5W classification. That means that at 32 F it has the same visosity as straight 5 weight at that temperature. That is thicker than the oil is when it is at operating temperature.
There are many web sites that get into extensive details about oil. For example:
http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
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Rich256 wrote:

This is top-notch advice on the synthetic.
SL supersedes & replaces all SK & earlier rated oils and is fine.
Rob

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Ask this question on http://groups.google.com/group/rec.motorcycles/topics?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&c2coff=1&safe=off .
You'll get a lot of more informed opinions.
Tom
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tomit wrote:

What question? Who are you responding to? What are you talking about?
Rob
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Toller wrote:

The "S" means Spark (gasoline) [opposed to C which means compression (diesel)]. The second letter is 100% backward compatible, that is the later letters (what will be do when they hit Z?) The later oils can do everything the earlier ones did and more.
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For air cooled engines, it's important to use a good quality oil. Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled. My fav is Castrol. So a good name brand is more important than the S rating. Other good brands I like are Penzoil, Mobil, and Exxon.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Any engine needs a oil of at least the quality specified...air-cooled or no.
As for the name on the can, if it meets a specified API/SAE grade, it meets the grade. The rest is advertising hype for the most part.
That said, there are a few oils I _won't_ use -- QS is one. No way to prove it really had anything to do with it, but I had a Chevy 350 throw a rod w/ it -- when opened it up, the top of the head was 2 inches deep in sludge and blocking the oiling holes so it wasn't getting any oil at all down no's 7 & 8 and the rest were ready...never overheated, always changed on schedule, etc., etc., ... But, at <50k, it had to have complete rebuild. I've run those engines routinely for 150k or more and that's the only one ever to have had an early failure.
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