I've cut each and every one of the 30+ laminate tops I've installed in
my building to length with my Makita circular saw.
I tape the laminate and turn the top upside down.
I clamp a 2X4 to the underside of the top and use it as a straight edge
for the shoe of the saw to slide along. (This is a clear fir 2X4 that I
had cut in a table saw to cut the rounded edges off of it for better
I set up two stacks of three shims each to act as "ramps" to lift the
saw over the front bullnose without changing the plane of the saw blade.
I stack the shims up on each side of where the blade will go and put a
piece of wide masking tape over them to hold them in place snugly
against the back edge of the front bullnose.
Once I cut through the top, I vaccuum up the sawdust and release the
clamps holding the 2X4 straight edge in place and clamp that same 2X4
across the kerf at the front bullnose to prevent the two sections of the
top from moving relative to one another. I check that the kerf is of
uniform width from front to back to ensure that the two sections of the
counter top are in the same position relative to one another as they
were prior to making the cut.
Then I use a hand saw to finish the cut through the back splash. I hold
the blade of the hand saw flat against the counter top edge on one side
of the kerf with my left hand, and move the saw forward and backward
with my right hand, and it's not hard to extend one side of the kerf the
remaining inch or so through the backsplash.
And, the only drawback to this method is that I always get a small chip
right at the top of the backsplash. But, the cut edge is still flat and
smooth enough to have no difficulty laminating the cut edge of the