We are in the process of having our roofed replaced and would like to
get feedback on whether it is just right, an overkill or a dumb
We live in Portland Oregon and have a 20 acre forest right in our
backyard. The house was built in 1987 w/ original shingle roof shake.
It had a leak last month and we knew it was time to bail out. The
roof pitch is 3/12 and the house is split level with cathedral ceiling
in the living space area.
We have asked for 3 quotes but got 5, price range bet. 9,000 and
3 of the contractors said the shake was bad news for that type of roof
but it was very popular during those days.
we were going with the certainteed tl lifetime but again 3 would not
recommend that type bec. of the slope. the most recommended roof was
the certainteed landmark 30 - 50 series.
So this is what we came up with:
complete tear off
certainteed landmark 30 or 50 shingle
grace ice and water shield on the entire roof
1/2" cdx plywood on top of the existing slats
install new flushings, air vents, hip and ridge material, etc....
the contractors were selected from certainted's web site of certified
installers. i threw home depot in the loop just to see what they
could come up with but i was not impressed with the presentation. but
that is another story...
we chose the ice and water shield over felt bec. we thought it will
add more protection.
any comments and feedbacks would be most appreciated. we would like
to start work mid-february.
cedar shakes (thick, rough). Which kind of cedar roofing material is it?
Portland Oregon's kinda wet, too, isn't it? The leak you had last month, did it
coincide with a freezing spell? Was it near an overhang, or behind an
Someday, it'll all be over....
email@example.comEDY (Tom) wrote in message
wrote on 1/28/04 5:45 PM:
the roofing metrial is cedar shakes. i also noticed that the shakes
in the steeper part of the roof were in much better shape than those
in the low slope area. we already had a leak last year on the same
spot, paid a guy to "fix" the problem. he came back 4x and then it
stopped raining. i phoned him this year and he never showed up.
we do not have trees right above the roof and alage/moss is not a
the forest is behind the propery line, about 30 feet away from the
we are also thinking about adding blown-in insulation while the roof
is off. and adding a ceiling fan since we can run wires at the top.
If you had a company that specialized in shakes come out, your probably
wouldn't have gotten the same response.
Certainteed also offers 40 yr. Landmark. A note on the Landmark in case
none of the companies told you, the now 30 yr. Landmark used to be rated 25
yr., the now 40 yr. Landmark used to be rated 30 yr. , and the now 50 yr.
used to be rated 40 yr. Certainteed didn't change the shingle, but through
testing upped the rating. I got this information through Certainteed's
newsletter about 3 yrs. ago.
If available in your area, and since you're by woods (don't know if your
home is shaded or problem with algae), you may want to look into the
Landmark AR series (algae resistant). Also don't discount the 40 yr
Landmark which is a pretty darn good shingle.
Why Grace and not Certainteed's water & iceguard? I heard but can't confirm
Grace is warrantied for 15 yrs, doesn't make much sense to use it with a
shingle over 15 yr. (Maybe someone will chime in and correct on what I've
heard) Certainteed water & iceguard is warrantied for the life of their
shingle, whichever year you use, this was also in their newsletter.
As already mentioned about a lesser cdx such as 3/8", if sold on 1/2" cdx
you want specification on if a 3 ply or 4 ply. Alternative to cdx _could_
possibly be 7/16" OSB.
Make sure the appropriate matching accessory cap is used, some cheap out on
the job and use a 3 tab shingle close in color, but this is not the correct
cap for Landmark. Is noticeable especially if you have a hip roof. I'm
also a firm believer in cap over ridge vent by AirVent Corp., which
I wouldn't put much stock in Certainteed contractor website, not to down
talk it, but to get on there you pass a couple of open book tests. You
still want to talk to past customers about the companies work habits, any
pitfalls and how the contractor handled it. Just a side note, I know about
the tests because I happen to be on their website also.
For iceguard to properly seal, temperatures must be above 40 F. If at all
possible, I would get a temporary patching and wait until spring.
Unless a customer specifically desires OSB, we never use it. Despite
the propaganda put out by the manufacturers, it does not hold nails as
well and it hasn't nearly the strength of plywood.
BTW, so far as I know, all plywood products have odd numbers of
layers, never even. This makes the plywood very strong in one
direction, although weaker in the other. Even though 3/8" plywood is
sufficient by FHA standards, it is far from sufficient for any real
roofing application. If you've worked on many houses decked with 3/8"
plywood you'll know exactly what I mean.
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
I'm not going into this debate, it's been beat to death if you follow the
NGs, especially on the strength issue. You will note this is going over a
substrate (slats) already down (I believe you missed that part). For nail
holding power, I suggest you use a barbed coil nail since you have problems.
I was speaking of 1/2" CDX, here you can buy 3 ply or 4 ply, evidently it's
not offered in your area, so now you know there is such an animal. I
worked on houses with 3/8", 24" O.C., we are not allowed to cover this with
roof material once found out. We _must_ put at least 7/16" over it, our
codes are not as lax as they once were. 3/8" is not sufficient by our local
codes, one code they should change everywhere.
"...Plywood is made from thin sheets of veneer that are
cross-laminated and glued together with a hot-press. Imagine the raw
log as a pencil being sharpened in a big pencil sharpener. The wood
veneer is literally peeled from the log as it is spun. Resulting
veneers have pure tangential grain orientation, since the slicing
follows the growth rings of the log. Throughout the thickness of the
panel, the grain of each layer is positioned in a perpendicular
direction to the adjacent layer. There is always an odd number of
layers in plywood panels so that the panel is balanced around its
central axis. This strategy makes plywood stable and less likely to
shrink, swell, cup or warp."
This is Copyright 2002 University of Massachusetts, Amherst. Found it
on their website.
Hope this helps.
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)
Your welcome. I have used the 4 ply cdx for at least 15 yrs, I would
imagine it's been out longer than that. Once you use 4 ply 1/2", you will
never go back to the 3 ply. Here it's about $3.50 a sheet more than the 3
firstname.lastname@example.org (Ed Lim) wrote in message
Based on what you present, that's a good roof.
If it were mine - given the low slope and near by trees - I'd consider
a metal roof.
There are a lot of metal roof materials and assembly systems, and an
experienced installer is most important. In return one gets a roof
with long life, no moss, no leaf build up, and little or no
Tom Baker says:
<< There are a lot of metal roof materials and assembly systems, and an
experienced installer is most important. In return one gets a roof with long
life, no moss, no leaf build up, and little or no maintenance. >>
A wise choice IMO. In our area (midwest) metal roofing, usually standing seam,
is finding its way into many upscale homes. Fifty year warranties are the norm.
But bulders tend to use materials from local sources, hence cedar shakes in
Oregon. All things considered, if it doesn't clash with neighborhood
structures, I'd go the metal roofing route. HTH
Our home in South Texas has an aluminum shake roof that resembles a cedar
shake roof. If you're concerned about "blending in" with the surrounding
homes, you might consider this option. Check this link to see an example of
what I'm talking about:
I would think a cedar roof, properly maintained, should last a
lot longer than that. Are you sure it can't be repaired?
If you get it torn off, there will be a huge mess in the attic
space below it. If you want to avoid having a horribly dirty
attic, spread plastic over the insulation before the teardown,
and clean it up after.
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