Retaining Wall Systems

[Sam Thompson]

My driveway slopes down from street level to basement garage level. On the house side of the driveway there is a stone retaining wall that will need to be replaced soon. The wall height tapers from about 33 inches (next to the garage) down to zero inches and the length if about 25 feet or so.

I'm thinking of installing a segmented retaining wall system. Manufacturers I've noticed include Versa-Lok, EP Henry, Unilock, Alan Block, Belgard, Keystone, Old Castle etc.

I've heard that Versa-Lok and EP Henry are the best, although I don't think EP Henry distributes to New England. (I live in Mass, NW of Boston.) Versa-Lok advertises that they don't need a foundation below the frost line, and I assume others are similar. Instead you build one course below grade and the wall system is designed to be flexible during frost/thaw.

I'm not sure if this is something I want to tackle myself or if I will contract out the job. On what hand I would take a lot of pride in the work and probably have some fun. The wall isn't terribly long and is only 33" max tall. But on the other, it seems to be more difficult because the base of the wall slopes and I can't excavate in front of the wall because of the existing driveway.

Does anyone have any thoughts about what product(s) to use, some realistic expectations of how to install with a sloping base, or what I should look for in contracting the job if I go that route?

[hallerb]

WALLS ALWAYS FAIL:(

Even with great foundations under the frost line.

your much better off with such a small drop to just remove the wall and regrade.

if you make it gentle you can plant grass, if steeper some ground cover or a flower garden can be a nice addition to your landscaping.

done right that minor slope wll never need more work and this approach saves bucks too

[Art]

I had a Anchor wall installed last summer. 33 inches is a tall wall and you better have a pro do it. When manufacturers gives specs, it includes the amount of wall underground. If the block is 6 inch block that means your wall is really 39 inches and will many blocks has to be engineered to be installed. Anchor has block that has been used for 60 foot walls and has survived earthquakes without damage in California. Check out their web site. I like theirs because they use a lip in back of each block instead of fiberglass pins to hold the wall up. Fiberglass can be damaged by the sun. Also your wall may be special fabric underground to be used as an anchor, and proper gravel and hose to drainage. You have to know what you are doing to put it in.

[Jim Elbrecht]

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I did a Versalock wall a few years ago. I'm in NY & though we didn't have much of a winter this year we usually get some serious frost. Mine is still perfectly level. It is on a 6inch #2 stone base with the first block 1/2 buried. The cap blocks are glued in place-- I was doubtful about how well masonry adhesive would work-- but it has even held on the steps I built into a corner that get heavy traffic from people & trash containers.

I'd do it again in an instant. Follow the manufacturer's directions. Ask the local supplier for any thought specific to your soil. Buy the ?$40-50? tool to pick up the blocks. It looks like a brick carrier- but it has fingers that go in the interlocking holes. It allows you to hold the block with one hand while rapping it into place with a mallet. Worth $100 to not be pinching fingers all day.

Jim

[Jim Elbrecht]

Probably-- but I've personally seen some 200 yr old walls that were fine-- and I think that wall in China has lasted a few years.

If I'm picturing the OP's situation correctly- a regrade will dump a bunch more water into his garage. At any rate it will be a pain to mow, or require a bunch of groundcover/greenscaping maintainance.

Sometimes a wall is the *right* way to go.

Jim