replacing main shutoff valve on incoming house water line

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Will a Home Depot propane Bernzomatic produce enough heat to remove a 3/4 sleeve copper fitting (my main shutoff valve) ?
Have verified the lines are copper and purchased a pressure collar type fitting for replacement shutoff valve
Picture of line and new replacement part at
http://i41.tinypic.com/33jjo8i.jpg
Need to produce enough heat to be able to remove the old collars off the main pipe
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On 4/20/2010 2:28 PM, jake wrote:

Plumbers don't like paint that much. Might assist you by removing that first...
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I left my main valve in, just installed a new ball valve downstream, 6" or so. Leave the main valve open, unscrew the knob, and you'll never have to think about it again.
All's you need to get out of it is one last close/open cycle. Will make the plumbing a lot easier.
You could even avoid sweating, and use 3/4 compression fittings (or flare), if code allows.
The problem with sweating in these situations is that even small amounts of residual moisture can make sweating difficult. You may have to stick in a small rag to stop moisture while sweating, but don't forget to remove it!!!
While you're there, I would plumb in a threaded T, with a threaded valve, as well, just for the future.
--
EA



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Now, that is a good idea. If you look at the picture the OP sent, you might notice what kind of shut off valve he has pictured. Incidentally, the valve he has pictured will probably not work well on pipe that had solder. He'd be better off with a sweat on valve.
I suppose I could ask. So, is the valve being replaced because it doesn't shut off completely? Have you tried a new faucet washer?
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On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:06:35 -0400, "Existential Angst"

Seems like a good idea to me.

This seems like a place where a wad of white bread would work well. It absorbs water for a while, then breaks up and comes out the faucet (although I never saw my bread come out. It's probably going to make the water heater burst soon.)
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C'mon, now, that's not politically correct. You have to call it "colorically challenged bread".
I've heard of plenty of people using a hunk of bread, and I can't remember hearing any after effects. Probably ends up in the aerator.
On the other hand, if you used black bread, you'd probably have babies coming out of your faucets, and find all your faucet washers stolen.
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Ahhh, the mental effects of mormon inbreeding revealed.....
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> --
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Ah, the effects of anonymous usenet posting revealed.
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On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 21:41:42 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Existential Agent's over the top criticsm of your post shouldn't end up covering up how obnoxious that post was. All the poster before you did was refer to bread, actual white bread, and your reply was racist and hateful. Coming from someone who constantly mentions that he is a Mormon, I would think you *would* be worried about embarrassing and shaming Mormons in general and the Mormon Church. Especially since there was a long-time official anti-Black policy in the Mormon church which they claim to have gotten rid of.
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On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 12:56:08 -0400, "Existential Angst"

A silly reply. I don't know for sure than anyone's failings, including your tendency to write stupid, vulgar stuff, isn't the result of inbreeding. I only read a couple lines before I decided it was worthless.
But that too doesn't lessen the problems I list above with the Stormin Mormon's post.
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Mama used to say, "Stupid is as stupid does."
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You must be one self-impressed bore at the dinner table.... goodgawd....
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>
> But that too doesn't lessen the problems I list above with the Stormin
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wrote:

I would use a 'sweat in' valve, go ahead and connect about 4 inch nipples to the valve, cut the house pipe and sweat in the assembly with repair couplings. Repair couplings dont have a stop in the middle, you can slide the pipe all the way through them. Toughest part of the job may be cleaning off the paint. I am assuming you have a cutoff on the street.
Jimmie
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I would use a 'sweat in' valve, go ahead and connect about 4 inch nipples to the valve, cut the house pipe and sweat in the assembly with repair couplings. Repair couplings dont have a stop in the middle, you can slide the pipe all the way through them. Toughest part of the job may be cleaning off the paint. I am assuming you have a cutoff on the street. ===================================================== Yeah, but those street shutoffs are dicey. That's why I suggested leaving the old valve, and putting the new one after it.
--
EA


Jimmie



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On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:24:50 -0400, "Existential Angst"

Our n'hood of about 100 homes is shaped like a square or a circle, with a valve every ?? 10 or 30 degrees, so by turning off two valves only 10 or 30 houses have to be without water. However everyone is afraid to turn off any but the main valve, the one they know works and they know the location of, so afaik it's always every house that goes without water. It's never bothered me but it seems to bother some others.

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wrote:

That is something he can test before he starts, no point in making it any more complicated than it has to be. If he cant get the water all the way off I would do the same as I said before except connect to the street side with a sharkbite and stilll do the house side with the repair coupling. In the worst case the sharkbite could be connected with water coming out of the pipe full force, admittedly this may not be practical.Once connected the new valve could be turned off to allow soldering. Only if it wasn't practical at all to turn the water off would I leave the old valve in. How much water the OP could tolerate coming out of the pipe until the new valve is in place would have to be determined by him.
Jimmie
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On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 17:20:17 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE

True but places like HD distinguish the two kinds with 2 or 3 tiny letters that meant nothing to me. And they get taken out of the right bin and plopped in the other bin. So best to feel with one's finger if the inverted dimple is in there.

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If you get the wrong one no big deal. You can turn it into a repair coupling just by hammering the dimple out. You can even drill the dimple out. If you do that push the end of the pipe past the dimple and fill with solder.
Jimmie
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How do you get the hammer into the coupling?
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On Apr 21, 9:44pm, "Stormin Mormon"

That idea of leaving the old valve there, if it's not leaking, may be good? I believe our municipality now charges $50 to turn off the water outside and then comes back later to turn it on again? We have used and had no trouble with those compression fittings. Our cold water supply is 3/4 copper rising vertically from basement floor. And we have used quarter turn ball valves to replace our main shut off. We have two such valves in series, with a coupling between. It just happened that way .......... but inadvertently it is most convenient. The lower valve shuts off the water, totally. The upper shuts off the back-flow from the house. The coupling is opened and a drain pipe (or bucket etc.) is arranged, the upper valve is opened and water in most lines in the house drains back down. In the meantime we have shut off the hot water inlet and outlet valves to avoid hot water siphoning back into the plumbing.
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