Replace toilet base

I am replacing toilet in 35 year old bathroom. When I took the toilet off I removed the wax ring. The wax ring sat on a black base part that sits on the floor and goes into the drainage. It broke and I need a new one. It seems to have two parts with the upper part that sits on the floor and the lower part that is like a short tub going into the drainage area. Is this a univeral part and do I need to put any special silicone on the new one when I put it in?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

The part in the floor is the "closet flange". Black means ABS plastic (likely).
You will need more info.
You *may* be able to use an expansion flange like: http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Oatey-43650-ABS-4-ABS-Twist-N-Set-Replacement-Closet-Flange/84441/Cat/156
or: http://tinyurl.com/3ze4nz
Or one of these: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/toiletflanges.html Maybe just "repair" the broken flange edge with replacement ring.
The again, you could be in over your head. You decide...
Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks,
For the closet flange it looks similiar to what I have with the tube part that goes into the drainage at 4 inches wide and the whole part is 3.5 inches height. Do I need any silicone when I put it in? And if I need the tube part that connects to drainage what kind of silicone do I use?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

The first one with the rubber seal at the bottom doesn't need any sealant.
The plastic fittings are normally "solvent welded" using a special glue. For the black plastic, it is ABS cement. Silicone sealant (RTV) *could* be used, but it's not a recognized method.
The flange should be anchored to the floor, if possible.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Yes you could use RTV sealant like Speedy Jim said and then go back later after the RTV sealant fails and do the whole job over again.
cm
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

35 years old I would say its cast iron
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

sounds like the flange is broke, i have had that happen..........
cast iron normally has leaded in connection not DIY friendly.........
it cant be gooed together and ust be replaced
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Home Depot, and many small town hardware stores have flanges that slip in, and then tighten with an allen wrench.
First, go out and kill a woodchuck. Next, shut off the water to the toilet, and drain it as best possible. Turkey baster works nicely. Remove water line, and two bolts which hold the toilet down. Remove toilet. Flange, if cracked, can be removed in chunks. Beat the flange with BFH, it breaks apart. Insert new flange. Go kill a couple squirrels, launch them with a strainer and bungees. aim for cement wall. Tighten flange. Reinstall toilet. Shim toilet to reduce wobble.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.