Rehashing a kitchen sink issue


Hi all,
Problem: My kitchen sink drain VERY slowly...it has taken about 5 minutes to drain fully sometimes. My home inspector informed me that I have unvented 's' traps in the kitchen and bathroom. I have one main roof vent, which is too small according to the inspector, and the bathroom plumbing and kitchen plumbing are on opposite sides of the house.
Here's what I have tried: 1. Drain-o, industrial strength gel, commercial liquid "green" 2. Removed the pvc pipes and augered the drain from the kitchen 25ft. and very little was removed. 3. Used a garden hose and "jet blasted" the kitchen drain pipe to try a pressure cleanout.
My kitchen piping is 1 1/4" pvc with a dishwasher.
I considered the following: 1. calling a plumber (I know it sounds funny, but I want to use this as my LAST option) 2. removing the pvc drains, and replacing it with 1 1/2" pvc pipe AND an Oatley Autovent. 3. Reaugering from the kitchen and the basement in both directions.
Does anyone have opinions/suggestions. I know I posted something similar before about this issue, but I've tried a few things since then...
Thanks for the help.
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Rich wrote:

1 1\\4" drain ?? Hmmmmm
OK. Put the Oatey Autovent in and see what happens. Report back.
When was house built? Is the drain PVC all the way...
Jim
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Thanks Jim for the response.
The house was built in 1926 and the pvc under the sink attaches to a cast iron pipe that goes vertically into the floor. I can't remember the name, but the 1 1/4" pvc is connected to a 2" pvc by a rubber conversion piece and then the pvc is attached to the cast iron.
The one interesting thing is that after I augered and drain-oed, the drain ran ok, not great, but ok for a few days. I was very careful about what was rinsed in the sink, and today it barely drains. I plan on installing the 1 1/2" pipes and the vent later in the week, though. I'll let you know...
Rich
Speedy Jim wrote:

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Well I just had this problem with my kitchen drain. We're on the 2nd floor and first I auger down about 15' but I felt like I pushed the plug down. So I went out and bought a new 50' er, an expensive one that had good flex (the cheap ones bend ) and a nylon core. I also moded it to use with an electric drill. Had to go down 30-35' and found two plugs. Now the drain runs fine. When the plugs are down so far it takes a while for the water to back up. Richard

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When working on the pipes, whether you keep the old ones or replace with a larger one, install a few cleanout areas using a "y" fitting, thread converter and a plug, at regular and convenient locations to ease future problems. If there are no future problems, then you have not lost much time nor money.
If you are changing the plumbing lines I would be suspicious of the cast iron area, if this is just for the kitchen sink, I would bypass (and remove) the cast iron fittings and go all the way with PVC. One word of caution, the cast iron section may actually be connected to threaded fittings and provide a vent that is hidden. Go cautiously. Also the "maybe" vent may have some solids backed up into it to plug it.

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Put a pot of water on each burner of the stove and when all are boiling dump em down the drain, if that doesn't help address the venting. Also when you saw out old sections of iron drainpipe they are often closed down with rust and deposits to 1/4 thier original size. Rich wrote:

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