My wife and I close on a new construction house in about 30-45 days.
We have plans to paint most rooms on first floor and master BR on
Any advice on:
1) how many coats for each room?
2) I have heard some colors needs a dark primer prior to putting on
normal color. Below lists colors for each room.
there is gray carpet throughout house
the walls will be builder-white (probably a good primer for light
in family room, 1 accent wall will be a blue- others will be gray
in dining roon walls will be a darker gray, with chair rail being
in living room two interior walls will be red/ canrberry, other walls
will be gray
in kitchen walls will be yellow
in master BR walls will be brown/ deep tan
how would I know if all these colors could be put over the white, or if
the color chosen will need a darker prime?
Ask at a good paint store.
Blue: two coats
Grey: Two coats?
Red: Many coats. Use a tinted primer and buy quality paint. Definitely
get advice from a paint store. The color chip will probably list the
base coat recommended.
Yellow: Probably 3-4 coats.
Tan: Two coats
Brown: Two coats.
jIM - First thing to consider. New construction will likely have nail
pops over the course of the next year. They will be less likely if your
house never got rained on while being built but you will still have
some. In my new house, the builder repaired them at the 1 year
anniversary but, as per our contract, only finished with the builders
white. If we had painted we would then need to re-paint the repaired
areas. Just a consideration.
Second - use a good quality paint. I have had good results with
Pittsburgh Paint (Manor Hall), Benjamin Moore and MAB. I have had bad
results from Sherwin Williams and VERY VERY bad results from home
despots store brand Behr. The Behr in light lavender could not cover a
very light yellow without THREE coats.
As for primer - Generally a primer is not needed. Its sometimes used
when the color change is dramatic. You paint supplier, if they're good,
will be able to tell you if you would want to use one or not. This will
vary based upon the color used. Some colors are more likely to need a
primer. Over white though, with a good paint, I probably wouldn't worry
about it with any color.
As to your color choices. Wouldn't be my choices but its your house.
So - One coat for each room, no primer. Should be doable with best
paint. Your darkest colors may require a second coat. Your Cranberry
wall and black chair rail will be your likely candidates for 2 coats.
For many of these colors I would take advantage (OK, it's expensive, but the
labor savings do count) of the samples that Ben Moore, and possibly other,
manufacturers offer. Put up a good 2x2 foot patch of your intended color or a
couple of choices. Look at it for a week. In the morning. In the evening. At
noon. At night with the lights on.
Reds can be too dark or too pinkish, browns and tans can be muddy, yellows can
be too bright or too orangey. Or, all of these can be great. But these really
strong colors you like can be hard to live with if they don't work just right
with the environs and lighting.
we have looked at both home depot and sherwin williams. We have also
looked at sears for paint. Any comments as to relative quality? I
have not heard of Pitt Manor Hall brand before. We live in Cincinnati,
We have discussed nail pops and are willing to paint over them.
it's much easier to paint before all the new furniture is moved in- our
bedroom set, entertainment center and new couches will not be delivered
until after we paint, and we won't moving our dining room set out of
storage until after we paint.
our friend's bought the same house model from the same builder two
streets down, and their nail pops at 9 months did not appear to be a
big deal to me...
BTW what causes nail pops? house settling?
You have been given some very good advice.
Nail pops have a number of causes, but settling, temperature and
humidity changes are all part of it along with poor choice of materials and
or workmanship. Screw them in an you will not need worry.
Getting quality paint and you may get by with just one coat, but I would
plan on two in most cases. Dark or light is not important. The difference
is important. So covering one dark color with another or one light color
with another is usually not nearly the problem of covering dark with light
or light with dark.
I can't offer any specific suggestions for paint brands and lines. They
tend to change often. Every time I find one I really like, the next time I
go to pant, it has changed. Consumer Reports does do testing and publishes
the results, but remember any test done two years ago is not likely to
represent the paint sold under that same brand today.
jiM - Thanks for being involved in your discussion!
Pittsburg paint has a website with a delaer locator.
Benjamin Moore has one at
MAb store locater at
I used shirwin willimas top of the line paint one time and it actually
cracked! The walls were washed and preped properly, something weird was
going on. I told you about the experience with behr already. I consider
anything with a sears store brand (Easy Living) to be suspect and would
not buy it. The Pittsburg Manor Hall and Benjamin Moore paints I have
used have covered very well in one coat and I had good results. MAB is
also good but my experience with it is second hand, I have helped on
projects using it but never bought it so my experience is limited to
only a couple of hours of painting with it but it looks good and went
on well. MAB is not widely distributed. Given that I have no reason to
change. I will never buy behr or sherwin williams again. Market forces
Agreed about the timing of paint before furniture.
Nail pops are most often caused by the lumber moving in changes to
humidity and tempature. Waiting 1 year (Full heating/cooling season)
and then fixing them will be ideal. Usually the lumber is wet or got
rained on during construction. When it dries it shrinks and causes the
nails or screws to wiggle loose. This is the most common cause of nail
pops. This is generally what 'settling' is. Everything sort of moves
and shifts a bit has it dries, gets wet, gets compressed, etc.
other than your opinions on behr, sears and sherwin williams paints,
can you refer me to something which states why the other paint is
it appears the retailers make the paint accessible, and the sherwin
williams web site is quite easy to use to pick out colors, so
explaining what is wrong with paint, or pointing me to an objective
discussion is appreciated.
brands Sher. Williams, Ben Moore, Pratt Lambert. When I tried Sears
paint, years and years ago, it was disappointing. I found ratings in
Consumer Reports, I believe, and tried Ben Moore because it was highly
rated. After many paint jobs, and trying other brands a time or two, it
remains my favorite. Price is a good guage, but not the only one by any
means. Good paint goes on more easily and stands up to wear and tear.
I used Ben Moore alkyd semi-gloss in my kitchen in 1980. No exhaust
fan, lots of grease, many heavy duty cleanings, three kids and a few
pets, and it looked good 15 years later. I generally use pretty neutral
color paint for interior and put the color in furnishings and decor, so
I don't repaint every couple of years.
My parents had Ben Moore on their new home in 1983, and repainted 10
years later, just for good measure. It looked like new, no peeling or
The paint companies, BM included, have lots of resources, including
technical aspects of the best product for special applications, like new
drywall, galvanized metal, problem surfaces, etc. Good place to read
Walls always start out white. Some deep colors, especially blues and
reds, have pigment such that they need 3 coats to cover and this is
stated on the prod. info in paint store (at least at BM). Your best bet
is to visit the paint store, not the paint aisle at wally's, and speak
with a knowledgeable salesperson. Choose your colors and paint types,
and they will advise you about the primers and tools you need.
I would suggest to stick with Sherwin Williams paint their Super Paint
or the Cashmere line for the bold colors. Not only do you have to be
concerned with coverage you want to be able to wash and touch these
paints up later. Darks make this very hard to do. Buy one gallon of
each and try it before you commit for the whole order. If you tell
them about your doing the whole house you may even get discount. For
the best results also use the best tools. Use Lambskin roller covers
they help the paint cover, good brushes too. Not those little 1" jobs
get bigger brushes they help you paint straighter lines. You put the
brush down and pull it down the line, bigger the brush the fewer stop
and starts (not straight) Wash your tools frequently, get a good
strong roller frame and extension pole. Since you are in Sherwin-W
country you might as well stick with the local big boys. The most
expensive part of the paint job is the labor, cheap paint causes you
to have more labor. The best paint has the best resins and pigments.
Tom, painting for 30+ years
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