Kelly Moore, Benjamin Moore, Sherman William, Glidden, Berr, Etc...
In Painting the Exterior of a house, is there really that big of a
Difference in the Paint itself, or are we just talking colors or?
I was recommended some Benjamin Moore paint and for this project I need to
cut some costs. Will Glidden or Home Depot Paint work just as well?
According to Consumer Reports the very best exterior paint is
California (flat, 90%), followed by Glidden (semi-gloss, 87%). Behr
(Premium Plus, 59%) was number 13. When I used the "best" Behr
exterior, which had a "lifetime guarantee", it was peeling in less than
2 years, and it was over a properly prepped and primed shed with brand
new siding. Thank goodness the shed was small! In my opinion Behr is
the worst paint ever, but of course, YMMV.
Okay, "California" paint is not sold in my state (Texas). If I bought some
of their flagship 2010 Residential Paint base, could one of their
competitors (HD, Sherwin-Williams, etc.), do the color match?
Well...according to the supplier it was "ready to paint", but we put it
up, caulked, waited three weeks, then lightly sanded and powerwashed
it. Then we used Bin (or Kilz, or whatever Behr recommended) on the
knots, Behr latex exterior primer, and 2 coats of Behr exterior
"Premium Plus". We also had one wall of a carport painted at the same
time as the shed (right next to each other), and it already had a
perfectly serviceable coat of paint. Since the shed was to be a
different color, we powerwashed the carport wall as well, and painted
it. It had EXACTLY the same amount of peeling as the new siding in the
same amount of time.
On 18 Sep 2006 21:20:03 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
email@example.com quickly quoth:
Don't you see the key? You powerwashed then painted. Paint doesn't
like moisture. You mentioned waiting 3 weeks the first time but didn't
mention any wait prior to painting after powerwashing.
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No, that's NOT the key. I didn't mention waiting 4 (sunny) days between
powerwashing and beginning to paint because, well, only a complete
IDIOT would start the prep with the wood still wet. Same reason I
originally failed to mention leaving the raw wood for several weeks,
only an IDIOT paints green wood. We waited 4 days, applied the Bin,
waited 2 more days, applied the primer. Waited 2 more days, applied
coat one. After 2 more days, coat two. Sheesh. It wasn't bad prep or
moisture, it was lousy paint. Hilary
It doesn't have to be "wet" to be wet.
There are quite a number of articles in Fine Homebuilding magazine
about paint versus pressure washing. Many painters simply
will NOT pressure wash wood siding at all, and others will wait
weeks before painting.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Anger??? What anger? Whatever. No, I did NOT use the oil-based knot
sealer, I used the latex Bin stuff recommended by the Behr paint can.
It said it drys in 2 hours and the primer can be applied in 24 hours. I
waited 48. Also, since I only treated the knots with the Bin, why would
the whole structure peel uniformly? Must be the paint. the wood was NOT
I've used the EXACT same process I used on the shed on other exterior
structures over the years, and have had many years of success with
exterior paint, as long as it wasn't Behr's "best" latex.
I'm in the process of doing exactly the same procedure on the house,
with both new and old siding. This time, however, I'm using the top
rated (Consumer Reports) California paint, which is rated to be 10
years. I've got to say that it's the best paint I've ever used - goes
on smooth, one coat coverage (over their oil primer for the new stuff),
no drips, no splatters. The consistency compared to any Behr product
I've ever used is exponentially better. I'll let you know how it lasts
In your post to which I was responding, you said:
"Then we used Bin (or Kilz, or whatever Behr recommended) on the knots,
Behr latex exterior primer"
This sounds like you used BIN or Kilz on the knots, and Behr latex
primer on the rest of the wood. Two different primers. The usual
reason for using spot primer on the knots is because oil primer works
better than latex primer on knots. That's why most knot primer is
oil-based. That's why I assumed that the spot primer you used on the
knots was oil-based.
Are you sure the knot-primer you used was water-based? The way you
stated it ("or whatever Behr recommended") sure makes it sound like you
didn't recall clearly what product you used. If it was indeed an oil
primer, that might help explain the problem you experienced.
Yes...I'm sure. I know because I can read a can of paint. I know what
it is because it's the same stuff I'm using now - Bin latex. I still
had an old can of it in the garage, and it's the same as what was
recommended by the California paint people (my local paint guy called
them to ask). Yes, we are using it just on the knots, and we prime over
both the wood and the Bin. I know it's water based because it cleans up
with just water and a little ammonia. Stinky, but cleans up fast. The
boards are dry to the touch in an hour and can supposedly be primed the
next day, although I wait at least 48 hours. For this current paint job
I KNOW the wood is dry (not green, etc.) because the clapboards sat in
my garage for 6 months before we were ready to put up the siding.
Again, I've been painting exterior structures for more than 40 years,
and the only paint I've EVER had start peeling in such a short time was
Behr. I had a contractor paint my house years ago with some big box
brand (he supplied the paint - I was SO stupid!) and it lasted less
than 2 years. I found an old paint can in the garage recently that was
the same color as that job, and lo and behold, that was Behr paint,
too! It wasn't even the "Premium" stuff, so yeah, I really think that
there's a huge difference in quality and results when it comes to
Back to the shed: what exactly is peeling? Is the paint peeling from
the primer (and the primer is still adhering to the wood), or is the
primer peeling from the wood (and the paint is still adhering to the
primer)? The difference is important.
I'm assuming the primer and the topcoat paint are different colors so
you can see the difference.
Just for clarification, BIN is a product of the Zinsser company. It
is neither an oil-based primer nor a latex primer, but a pigmented
shellac and normally recommended for interior use. Zinsser makes
several other primers including "123", a latex interior/exterior
primer, and "Coverstain", an oil-based int/ext primer.
Kilz is a brand name of MasterChem Industries. They make several oil
based and latex based products that use 'Kilz' in the name.
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