I have a slow leak in one of my tires. Takes a week or two to lose 10 - 15
PSI and set off the car's low tire warning. Annoying.
I'm sure a tire shop won't find a leak that slow. I guess I'll just have to
remember to top off the tire every week or so. With my memory?
Anything else I can try - besides buying a new tire?
On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 1:00:28 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
I suggest you try. Take it off and use some soapy water. Often it's a nail that is still in the tire. When you pull it out the leak won't be slow any more. Better to find it now than to have it turn into a fast leak while you are on the road somewhere.
check the valve. if you aren't sure how, bring it into a shop... they
will usually have to take the tire off, so it might cost a bit more than
you would like.
visually inspect it though... does it look good to you?
Aluminum wheels by any chance?
My daughter bought a used car with aluminum wheels. Within the first month
we had it in the shop twice for slow leaks in the front tires. After they
both turned out to require nothing more than the cleaning and sealing of
the rims to get a better seal, I brought it back and had them do the other
2 wheels as a preventative measure. Things have been fine since then.
I had a car that leaked like that, one day my wife drove on the flat, it w
as a emergency. The only fast replacement wheel was a steel one, in the nex
t year the only one that didnt go flat. the tire shop shwed me the problem,
I bought 4 replacment steel wheels and never had a flat again.
alunimum wheel rust with a white poweder that causes rim leaks.
steel can too but it takes many many years.......
i really dont know, at the time my mom had just died, in a 2 year period 7 close friends and family died. I was barely functional, and actually forgot about the wheel trouble, till I realized the ONLY tire that didnt go flat was the steel one
steel rims, I'll still take aluminum rims over steel - particularly
for my summer tires - but I run alloys on my winter tires too - and
i'm in the salt belt. Sure, they start to leak at about 5 years - but
by then the rubber is hard enough I throw the tires away anyways - and
clean the rims. I do have one slow leaker on the Taurus right now - on
a wheel that I paid a tire shop to install the new tires. I'll likely
end up breaking the bead and cleaning it up when the weather gets
Two vehicles with aluminum rims. Problem all the time. Sometimes it seals,
especially with stop leak. If it seals, another one may start to leak. They
all leak over time. I don't remember having problems with my old Dakota
aluminum rims, nor with another set I had for 30 years, but that didn't see
weather conditions and salt.
Many years ago my brother heard a clack-clack-clack as he was driving. He
stopped and saw the hex head of a bolt in his tire. He brought the tire to
a shop to have the bolt removed and the tire plugged.
He watched as the mechanic pulled and pulled and pulled on the bolt. Turned
out to be a six inch long 3/8” bolt. He must have hit it just right to
drive it all the way into the tire and have it seal itself tight.
On Wed, 12 Mar 2014 00:41:22 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
plug, as well as numerous miscalaneous pieces of hardware.
Then there was the brand new car with a WAY offbalance tire - with a
full bottle of "Black Label" in it. Somebody was drinking on the job
and didn't want to get caught, I guess.
I agree, a competent shop should dunk it, rotate it, and find the leak.
What I do in case my tire goes flat when a shop is not convenientis
carry a can of stop-leak. It has enough compressed air to inflate the
tire pretty much, and some sticky stuff to seep out of the leak and seal
it. If one only has one can and he uses it, he has no can and has to
buy a can immediately or he'll have no can. So for a while I carried
two cans. But if then I use one can, I'll only have one can, and
that's not enough, so I carried three cans. Nothing made the numbers
go up higher after that. Now that I get so few flats, I'm down to
I also carry strings, a little glue, and two tire repair tools. I've
patched a lot of my own leaks, made by nails, etc. I also carry a 12v
tire inflator. It puts out enough air to find a leak if you look
closely, unless you've separated the bead from the rim, but if you have,
by the weight of the car perhaps, you can usually squeeze the tire or
stand on it enough to get that part back the way it was. Just follow
the directions to use the strings. You need a tool, like a needle with
an eye, to push it in, twist it, and pull it out. Had a cheap thin one
that I used several tiems but eventually it broke and I bought a bigger
better one. There is a also a rasp-like tool which I didn't have most
years and did fine without it, but I finally got one. Haven't had a
flat since. It helps to have a razor or razor tool, to cut off the
string where it comes out of the tire, but I think I just let it wear
Strings are better than plugs, and maybe easier too.
What I want is to stop leaks in my tires when they occur.
It's easy to take a bicycle tire off the rim, but not a car tire. You
need a machine that I don't have space for, and the shops don't even use
the hand machine, because it's too much work. They use a pneumatic
machine that's much bigger yet.
And it's certainly not something I'd want to do on the road, but I have
patched tires with strings on the road.
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