OK to trim cut a steel door?

I have a relatively new metal exterior door that was thrown in by a previous owner. Most likely the people who repo'd the house since it looks new and has only factory primer on it.
Anyway, being thrown in, it is not in straight. Not bad but not straight. I really should have taken it out and put it back in before I redid the inside and outside if the house. I didn't so...
Problem is there is 0 clearance at one end (actually <0 since it scrapes) of the door on the bottom with the threshhold. At the other end of the bottom there is a gap. Enough to see visable light as well as considerable cold air in the winter.
A level on frame of the vertical hinge side shows it's off which explains the bottom of the door issue. I guess what I need to do is be able to put a U-channel (door shoe?) on the bottom of the door where the channel is the width of the door thickness and has rubber on the bottom that meets the threshold.
Having no clearance now, I assume I have to make clearance. All I can think of is to cut a bit off the bottom of the metal door. The bottom couple inches of the door is not solid.
Are these doors made to so they can be cut if necessary? Like with a jig saw or circ saw with a metal blade?
Thanks, Al...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Maybe re-hang it? Sorry. Tom Al Bundy wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

As I said...

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Al Bundy wrote:

Don't cut the door. Check the threshold piece...many are made so they can be raised/lowered/tilted with integral bolts. The door should close against the raised part of the threshold and against a magnetic gasket so that air/light doesn't come through. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-installing-steel-or-fiberglass-entry-sys tems--bg-1284494.html
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nope. Not this one. Minimum cost I assume because of what I mentioned:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sometimes a door will sag a little with just short screws thru the hinge into the jamb. I like to take out one of the screws in the top hinge and replace it with a longer one that penetrates the 2X. This will usually suck the door up off the jamb.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yea, so do I :-)

I mentioned:

This is the primary, if not only, cause. Maybe I will mess with it a bit more. Not sure if I tried losening the bottom one before torquing the top one. But I need to get some space under there to put either the proper insulating strip that came with the door (which I don't have) or a door shoe. Either way. I need more space than what's even on the gap side now.
Thanks for the reply.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Checked it out today again. I had put some longer screws in but not 2 1/2- 3"ers. Have plenty of drywall screws that size around but don't like to use high torque with that length since the thin necks can snap.
So while out I picked up some 3" #10. Threw a couple in the top hinge and it did pick it up off the bottom to stop the scraping. Still not enough clearance to get any kind of weatherstripping in there to work. Will just have to find and make do with some kind of sweep/rubber that mounts to the outside of the door.
Thanks for urging revisiting it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.