Need quick advice for fixing galvanized horizontal hot water pipe in crawlspace (first time)

[Elmo]

I need basic direction for fixing a 3/4" steel galvanized hot-water pipe which developed a leak right in the middle of a 50' horizontal run (probably put there in the 1960s' in the crawl space).

I saw temporary tape and putty patches but I'd rather replace the section that is leaking.

I'm sure I cut the bad section out and replace with a new pipe but what I don't understand is how to make the connection.

I mean, one side will be easy but then as I try to screw in the other side, it will unscrew the first side.

How does one replace a section of galvanized steel pipe?

[Reed]

You will probably want to use 2 sections of new pipe, and connect them together with a fitting known as a "union"

[Ray]

Put in a union fitting in the line...

[Soundhaspriority]

I used to be an amateur plumber, but never had a chance to join the union.

Getting a union plumber might be the best bet, though.

"I don't really have a replacement career, it's a very gnawing thing."

Bob Morein [phone]

[John Grabowski]

*For all of the effort you will put into replacing one section of galvanized pipe you could probably solder in copper for the whole run. You may decide that it needs to be done after removing the leaky pipe and seeing its condition on the inside.

[Jim Elbrecht]

You'll be farther ahead at the end of the day if you just get 50feet of Pex, PVC or even Copper and just replace the whole run to where it is easier to access or has already been replaced.

If you want to waste some time- cut out the obviously bad piece & attach a new on with a couple repair couplings-

Jim

[ransley]

Just get a pipe clamp repair kit and be done in 5 minutes until you think about it, Its a big metal clamp with rubber to surround the pipe, they are standard affair in commercial use and work well, You probably got a leak where the installers pipe wrench dug in far on install so it could be only one bad area. I have about 10 in place at different locations, some are 25+ years old. They are common to put in in buildings where pipes are imbedded, or where replacing is a major major job and shutoffs are a pain, like in big condos office buildings etc, they do work well, Ace has a good brand, I always have spares on hand for different size pipes up to 2-3".

[xparatrooper]

in order to utilize a union, you would have to figure out a way to cut out the bad spot and then thread the bare ends. Since you would probably lose a couple inches (or six) of bad pipe, you would need a threaded-both-ends nipple, and a coupler to close the gap. Then you would be able to use a union to join everything back together.

A question worth asking: Is the bad spot due to spot damage? or is the WHOLE length a ticking time bomb?

You may want to get yourself 50 feet of replacement pipe, and since pipe comes generally in 21 foot lengths (from a ~real~ supplier, NOT your usual home centers which sell shorter lengths), you would need to get some couplers and 2-3 individual pieces to make up the length. Make sure one of the pieces is a short-ish threaded both ends nipple and then add the union to cinch everything up nice and tight. Don't forget the pipe dope or teflon tape or whatever would be appropriate to finish the job.

If you've never used teflon tape, be careful to wrap it in such a manner that threading a fitting onto your wrap will NOT accidentally unwrap all your hard work. In other words, no matter if you are right or left handed, wrap clockwise as you face the threaded piece of pipe head on.

Best of luck!

[Eric in North TX]

could use 2 male adapters and a pipe union. or better yet, a male and a female + a short nipple then a pipe union between. That way you could be a little less accurate & adjust it with the nipple. that still would be a bear tightening the union, if the space is tight. Plan B; use a piece of pex or or something somewhat flexible and 2 Sharkbite joiners. Just be sure to sand the cuts on the old pipe so you don't ruin the seals in the joiners.

[Stormin Mormon]

One uses a union.

Such as this.

[Stormin Mormon]

I also viewed that image, but it's seriously huge compared to my browser.

[N8N]

I agree with this post. While you're at the store you might want to get some pipe insulation as well so your hot water heater isn't heating your crawl space.

nate

[trader4]

As others have suggested, I'd find convenient points on either end of the run where the bad pipe attaches to existing fittings and convert to copper. Much easier to work with than screwing around with unions, which require pipe to be threaded to exact lengths necessary. With copper, you can also use a repair coupling to avoid having to use a union, A repair coupling is like a regular copper coupling, only it doesn't have bumps inside so you can slide it completely over one piece of pipe, move the adjacent pipe into place next to it, slide it back half way and solder.

[hallerb]

Begin NEW, its less work in the long run and pretty cheap.

Replace the entire run with PEX.

What OP doesnt know YET that fixing one leak will bring 2 more, and it just gets worse:( Plus the line is likely clogged with rust since galvanized rusts from the inside out.......

PEX is cheap flexible freeze tolerant and easy to work with.

Just replace the entire hot run from a convenient easy to reach place, right to the faucets it feeds.

[Elmo]

I don't mind replacing it with copper.

Can you just suggest what width of copper would be for a 3/4" steel galvanized replacement and what would the ends look like?

Would it be 3/4" copper? And do I need anything special to connect the copper to the galvanized at the two ends?

It's your basic ranch house with the kitchen on one end and the bathrooms on the other end.

[mm]

You beat me to it. That's what I was going to recommend. Brush the crud off and clamp it on. 5 minutes.

Maybe they're right that there will be more leaks, but maybe there won't be, and anyhow, if there are, OP you can put on another clamp or do the replacement work when it's not so cold in the crawlspace.

[Elmo]

Does this "repair coupling" work with copper for the long run attached to galvanized on the edges?

[DD_BobK]

As you can see from all the replies....there are many different ways to "repair" your situation.

What you choose to do depends on your level of skill, availability of tools and have you decide to balance your time spent vs money spent.

I had a similar situation a bit more than 30 years ago. I heard a "drip, drip, drip" in my crawlspace, my wife was in the hospital having our first kid. I sawzalled out the bad section, threaded the long end of the run, replaced the short end (the leak was very near a fitting) and put in a flexible (copper) water heater connection line.

This "fix" served from Dec 1979 until I PEX'd the house in 2006. The water quality in my area is not conducive to corrosion (many leaks are self-sealing) so I was very lucky that no other leaks appeared and the fix held so long.

YMMV

If you have access to PEX tools, I would suggest a PEX fix. If you're thinking about an eventual copper repipe, do this section with copper and use Shark-Bite.

So as you can see there are lots of ways to do this.

cheers Bob

[N8N]

I am not a plumber, so I don't know if any kind of dielectric fitting is desirable here or not. It ought to be easy enough to find a simple

3/4" FIP to 3/4" copper sweat fitting though.

I think that what several people are hinting at is that if you have to replace 50' of pipe it might be more advantageous to only connect to the old galvanized at the "feed" end, and just continue the copper on to wherever it eventually ends up. As others have stated, this may be your *first* leak but it probably won't be your last.

nate

[N8N]

How many people have pipe dies just laying around? I sure don't. Wish I did, but those suckers are aspensive.

nate