On Jan 25, 12:49 am, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Just get a pipe clamp repair kit and be done in 5 minutes until you
think about it, Its a big metal clamp with rubber to surround the
pipe, they are standard affair in commercial use and work well, You
probably got a leak where the installers pipe wrench dug in far on
install so it could be only one bad area. I have about 10 in place at
different locations, some are 25+ years old. They are common to put in
in buildings where pipes are imbedded, or where replacing is a major
major job and shutoffs are a pain, like in big condos office buildings
etc, they do work well, Ace has a good brand, I always have spares on
hand for different size pipes up to 2-3".
You beat me to it. That's what I was going to recommend. Brush the
crud off and clamp it on. 5 minutes.
Maybe they're right that there will be more leaks, but maybe there
won't be, and anyhow, if there are, OP you can put on another clamp or
do the replacement work when it's not so cold in the crawlspace.
On Jan 24, 9:49 pm, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
in order to utilize a union, you would have to figure out a way to cut
out the bad spot and then thread the bare ends. Since you would
probably lose a couple inches (or six) of bad pipe, you would need a
threaded-both-ends nipple, and a coupler to close the gap. Then you
would be able to use a union to join everything back together.
A question worth asking: Is the bad spot due to spot damage? or is
the WHOLE length a ticking time bomb?
You may want to get yourself 50 feet of replacement pipe, and since
pipe comes generally in 21 foot lengths (from a ~real~ supplier, NOT
your usual home centers which sell shorter lengths), you would need to
get some couplers and 2-3 individual pieces to make up the length.
Make sure one of the pieces is a short-ish threaded both ends nipple
and then add the union to cinch everything up nice and tight. Don't
forget the pipe dope or teflon tape or whatever would be appropriate
to finish the job.
If you've never used teflon tape, be careful to wrap it in such a
manner that threading a fitting onto your wrap will NOT accidentally
unwrap all your hard work. In other words, no matter if you are right
or left handed, wrap clockwise as you face the threaded piece of pipe
Best of luck!
On Jan 25, 12:49 am, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
you could use 2 male adapters and a pipe union. or better yet, a male
and a female + a short nipple then a pipe union between. That way you
could be a little less accurate & adjust it with the nipple. that
still would be a bear tightening the union, if the space is tight.
Plan B; use a piece of pex or or something somewhat flexible and 2
Sharkbite joiners. Just be sure to sand the cuts on the old pipe so
you don't ruin the seals in the joiners.
On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 05:20:48 -0800 (PST), Eric in North TX wrote:
Actually, Home Depot solves this problem. It takes two trips.
For trip 1 you buy almost everything you need and then you put it all
together, including the 3-piece union and then measure the gap.
In my case, the gap, say it's 25 1/4 inches. You add 1/2 inch to each side
so you need a 26 1/4 inch threaded pipe.
Trip 2, back at Home Depot you buy a 10-foot 3/4-inch galvanized pipe and
they cut it to 26 1/4 inches and thread it for you on a big oily threading
machine in the plumbing aisle.
Theoretically you pop that threaded pipe in and pop on the remaining 2
pieces of the 3-piece union and you're done.
Mine leaked at the 3-piece union so I wasn't done for a long time.
I wonder. How long SHOULD this have taken? For me, all that crawling in the
crawl space, shutting off and turning on water, running out to get longer
and longer pipe wrenches, multiple trips to Lowes and Home Depot to find
that none of them have lead-free dialectric unions, etc., took over 12
hours to fix that one leaky pipe.
How long SHOULD it have taken to fix the leak and what would plumber have
As others have suggested, I'd find convenient points on either end of
the run where the bad pipe attaches to existing fittings and convert
to copper. Much easier to work with than screwing around with
unions, which require pipe to be threaded to exact lengths necessary.
With copper, you can also use a repair coupling to avoid having to use
a union, A repair coupling is like a regular copper coupling, only
it doesn't have bumps inside so you can slide it completely over one
piece of pipe, move the adjacent pipe into place next to it, slide it
back half way and solder.
On Jan 25, 10:41 am, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
You use a copper adaptor on each end. The adaptor has male or female
threads on one end and a solder fitting on the other. The threaded
end connects to wherever you disconnect the galvanized pipe. The
repair coupling is only needed if you need to butt one piece of copper
pipe up to another to complete the connection, which you may need to
do. It depends on how the existing plumbing is connected, your
choice of where to disconnect/replace, etc.
The classic example of using a repair coupling would be if you wanted
to replace a one foot section of copper pipe in the middle of a run.
You cut the one foot out, cut a replacement piece, a repair coupling
goes on each end and the coupling gets slid completely onto the new
pipe. After it's in place, you slide them back so half the coupling
is on the existing pipe, then solder.
If you decide instead to replace with galvanized, you can get
galvanized cut and threaded to whatever length you need at HD, Lowes,
etc. And with that, as others have said, you would use a galvanized
coupling, which gets held in place with essentially a big nut. You
could use two couplings, but typically you can screw at least one end
of the pipe out of another fitting, so you only need one coupling.
No, you need to go to a threaded coupling on each end, and use a galv to
copper adapter. Threaded one side, looks like a copper fitting on the
other. Borg will have it. You then piece in the copper in between, and
use the repair coupler for the last inline joint, unless there is enough
slop in the line that you can hold the ends apart long enough to slip a
regular fitting on.
On Jan 24, 10:49 pm, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
As you can see from all the replies....there are many different ways
to "repair" your situation.
What you choose to do depends on your level of skill, availability of
tools and have you decide to balance your time spent vs money spent.
I had a similar situation a bit more than 30 years ago. I heard a
"drip, drip, drip" in my crawlspace, my wife was in the hospital
having our first kid.
I sawzalled out the bad section, threaded the long end of the run,
replaced the short end (the leak was very near a fitting) and put in a
flexible (copper) water heater connection line.
This "fix" served from Dec 1979 until I PEX'd the house in 2006. The
water quality in my area is not conducive to corrosion (many leaks are
self-sealing) so I was very lucky that no other leaks appeared and the
fix held so long.
If you have access to PEX tools, I would suggest a PEX fix. If
you're thinking about an eventual copper repipe, do this section with
copper and use Shark-Bite.
So as you can see there are lots of ways to do this.
Yeah...good point. I borrowed my set from a friend's dad in 1979.
When I went to return them....he said "keep them, I know you'll get
more use out of them than I will".
He also gave me the Tri-stand and a 2 1/2" pipe cutter.
I got another set for next to nothing at a garage sale & sold it for
For $60 (or less) on ebay you can get the ratchet handle, a 1/2" &
3/4" dies........way cheaper than new
I got my 1" die on ebay.
I need friends like yours.
Although I did sell a set of chassis punches years ago that I salvaged
from a dumpster. I regret it now, but at the time I was moving every
year and that box had to weight 100 lbs.
Yes ...... it was very generous but the dad was a mechanical engineer
(I was an ME student) and my friend was an English major with no
interest in tools, etc.
Those punches were a great DD (dumpster dive) but a set weighs a lot
and having to lug them around is a real PITA.
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