Great info and help. Thanks Lefty.
Great info and help. Thanks Lefty.
-snip-
If that's the case- then don't dick around with anything. Buy a brand-new high-efficiency model and be done with it. If your propane is that high, the payback period ought to be pretty quick.
Jim
Jim, that'd be my suggestion as well. Just go to Sears or a plumbing supply place and get a new heater. There comes a time when fiddling with replacement parts, digging, scraping, and all that mess just isn't worth it. FWIW, in many installations I've seen, there wouldn't be room above to get a replacement plunge tube in without disconnecting and tipping a drained tank, anyway.
I've replaced a couple dip tubes. Would you like to hear what worked for me?
Chris, yes. I meant to thank you along with Lefty in my last post.
Thanks for the field report. Boots on the ground is always more useful than a monkey at a keyboard. Hey, you got any bananas?
Well, that's a blast of fresh air. Someone wrote a kind word?
Hope it works out well, for you.
On the off chance that "Chris, yes..." meant to write what I learned. Read everything before doing anything.
Tools: Pipe wrench, torch, flux, solder (no lead, please), finger, Rectorseal #5, pipe cutter.
Parts: Dip tube, copper union.
Procedure:
You just saved $325 in labor charges from a plumber, and you get to keep the tools. A copper union costs 3 bucks, a sweat coupler costs 30 cents. But, the next time you work on the WH, you can change the dip tube with just wrenches and rectorseal.
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