Need help with grounding rod, please.

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I have a piece of rebar, 36" long, 1"dia. that I want to use as a grounding rod for an electrical fence.
This rod has a lot of rust on it so my questions are, should I wire brush, or sand this rust off, so as to maximize conductivity?
How deeply should I bury the rod?
TIA.
Lewis.
*****
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Er, no. It's just going to rust again and your work will be for naught.

A. You don't "bury" the rod, you drive it into the ground.
B. Depth depends on soil conditions. What do the instructions for your electric fence say?
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It might be OK for an electric farm animal fence. But I agree with your points above. He can clean that rebar all he wants, but all you have to do is look at it and it will rust again. They rust just sitting in a garage. Exposed, outside, it's going to rust again, including the contact area between the wire and bar.
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On 7/12/2012 11:48 AM, HeyBub wrote:

Rebar is the wrong material to use for a grounding rod. There is a reason why copper rods are used for this application. You don't want a rod that rusts away over time. Home Depot and Lowes sell the correct copper rods, and they are not terribly expensive. Use one instead of rebar.
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the ground rods sold at home depot etc arent copper they are copper plated steel......
if the OP can put the electric fence charger near the homes service entrance they could connect a copper cable to it for grounding purposes. or buy a copper plated ground rod, they rust very slowly....
using the rusty rebar isnt worth the effort
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Yes, you're right. I thought per NEC they now had to be copper, but galvanized pipe is still OK.
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wrote:

Does the NEC code quoted above pertain to electric fencing? The beginning part of that NEC section reads:
E3508 GROUNDING ELECTRODE SYSTEM
E3508.1 Grounding electrode system. Where available on the premises at each building or structure served, electrodes specified in E3508.1.1, E3508.1.2 and E3508.1.3, and any made electrodes specified in E3508.2, shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system.
A fence is not a building or structure. I have an older copy of the code so maybe the wording has changed, but I don't know that that section of the NEC applies.
R
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I was discussing it only in the context of a ground round for residential use in general, not specific to the animal fence application. The reference from Bob is from the International Code Council, but it's consistent with NEC.
If a galvanized pipe is good enough for the NEC for a residential ground, then it's good enough for me for the animal fence. Strictly speaking and to your point, I don;t know what specifically would apply to the application. One would think the installation instructions would hopefully be in compliance.
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On Thursday, July 12, 2012 11:00:17 AM UTC-5, Smarty wrote:

NIB 5/PACK ERICO, INC 615880UPC 5/8X8FT COPPER GROUNDING ROD
US $240.95
240/5 = $48 each
Not exactly "penny roll money".
Andy
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Smarty scrit:

Galvanized pipe should work for his application, where cheap is a requirement.
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On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 18:21:29 +0000 (UTC), "Harold W."

I don't remember my copper rod being very expensive, and with everything transistorized, I wouldn't skimp on grounding.
Even doing it property, I found my alarm control panel smoking one morning.
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wrote:

If you don't want to skimp on grounding don't depend on a rod, even if it was made of silver or gold. Ground rods are the least capable electrode.
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On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 22:32:09 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Whatever else the instructions said to do, I did. There are a lot of tall trees and lightning around here.
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wrote:

I've never seen a "copper" grounding rod used. Many copper plated steel though. A copper rod would be a royal pain to drive - way too soft.
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On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 07:51:18 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Yes, I'm sure you're right. I just used the term the pre-OP used.
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On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 11:32:33 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Wooosh!
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On 11/26/2013 10:32 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Finding your panel up in smoke has to be expensive. So, what is a better ground? Better than a rod? Enquiring minds want to know.
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On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:13:26 -0500, Stormin Mormon

The panel wasn't that expensive, maybe $50. I started out looking for a company to install it for me, and I came across a guy who seemed dissatisfied with his career. He told me everything I needed, and who to call to get it. Though I later found out this company only sells wholesale and they mean it, since I called a few hours in advance, gave them a list of exactly what I wanted (based on what he told me), and showed up with cash, they ignored the wholesale only rule. I think the big reason people don't want to sell retail is the long series of questions they get from amateurs. Since I didn't ask any questions, they were happy to sell to me. (The guy might have told me to mention his name, but I don't remember that.)
The real problem was that the exact same panel wasn't available anymore, so for years I did nothing. Then a friend with an alarm business (who I didn't know until years after I first got the alarm) gave me a panel that he uses for most of his clients. It has taken me much too long but I have almost finished installing that.
I get crime statistics from http://spotcrime.com ** and there really aren't many burglaries, or other crime, around here, but I have to finish anyhow before a planned long trip, if only to make myself feel better.
**There's another webpage that does this too.

I don't know. The instructions for the new panel say to use a ground rod iirc.
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On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:37:30 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:

A better ground would usually be the grounding system for the building. That could consist of a Ufer, metal water pipe running underground, ground rod/rods, etc. In new installations if you're going to rely on ground rods, there is almost always more than one. Also, if you do use a seperate ground rod to ground something, per code, it's supposed to be bonded back to the building ground system, not left on it's own.
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On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 08:04:12 -0800 (PST), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

That's not what the instructions said. Who am I supposed to believe, you or the instructions from the manufacturer?
BTW, it did last 20 years before it smoked to death.
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