Microwave question

I have a Panasonic Inverter microwave. I really like it, and it has performed like a champ for years now. Now, with increasing frequency, it will not start when I shut the door. Lifting the door up slightly sometimes will get it to start on its own. Sometimes I have to repunch the numbers. I seem to be able to get it to work, it just takes fiddling with. Are there any adjustments that can be done? I am pretty sure it has to do with the door closure apparatus/hooks/interlocks/ and the plastic items that the hooks go into, and allow the circuit to be complete so cooking can start. Is there anything in there to be lubricated? Any way to file the hooks down a tad to make them drop down just enough to make it work? Help appreciated.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2013 10:17 PM, SteveB wrote:

This might be obvious, but if you don't know what you are doing, you might just leave this to someone else. The steps to take with this are potentially hazardous. What is your skill level with working around items that have the potential to shock you, even when they are unplugged?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I don't think so, but you can look at each switch. There is likely a circuit diagram inside the right side, with maybe some indication of where each switch is. But don't run the thing for more time than it takes to test it, one or two seconds, without all the covers on. Better yet, when the thing is unplugged so as to not burn out the meter, test the switches with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. And then you should only need a total of two seconds for testing after you get the switches right.

Are you sure you want it smaller, and not bigger?
At any rate, every microwave made in the last many years has to have 3 door interlocks, So don't waste too much time on a good one when there's another somewhere that's bad.

YOu can tell that the big plastic hooks on the door don't go down?
I visited friends once who had a door that wouldn't latch at all. While they were at work, I took apart the door and reattached the spring that pulled on those hooks. The plastic stud it attached to had broken off so I used some wire I found in their house, hooked it a couple loops back from the end of the spring and tied it on somewhere past where the stud had been. It was easy once the inside panel of the door was open. All of it was in the right-most inch of the door. Maybe that will tighten the right spring for you.
They were really happy when they found it fixed when they got home.
BTW, wrt another thread, this is another example of why I carry tooks (and a meter) in the car. He probably had all the tools I needed, but I didn't want to rummage through his place while they were at work.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2013 11:17 PM, SteveB wrote:

Posted elsewhere that I also just got one of these Panasonic Inverter microwave ovens and am very happy with it.
This was the problem with the one we got rid of. Can't remember brand, but it was a problem with the door. Oven would work fine but you had to fiddle with the door in the manner you describe.
Whatever, these things are like toasters and you toss them when they get finicky.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2013 8:17 PM, SteveB wrote:

Oh, boy, can I ever answer your question.
We have the same microwave and for a year or more had the same problem.
You must remove the cover. Takes a hex security screw driver for the back screws and a Phillips driver for the side screw.
You will see a very flimsy steel bracket holding the door interlock mechanisms. There are two, one above the other.
The metal bracket bends away from the door when you close it. This is the problem. the solution is to add a metal strip to hold the bracket in place. There are already holes there for the brace, but they failed to install it. You will see the holes at the top of the bracket and the metal frame nearby. I am writing this from memory.
Use screws or small bolts to secure the brace. Do this with the door closed so all is aligned properly.
then plug in the oven and see if it runs. It only has to start, then shut it off. There may be some adjustments necessary to get the new bracket tightened in the right position.
Put the cover back on when the oven door works properly.
Our oven had been performing perfectly for about 6 months since adding the brace.
Paul
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/19/2013 2:51 PM, Paul Drahn wrote:.

Thanks. My next step was to take the cover off, and examine the workings of the door mechanism, and probably be able to figure out from there. Those doors open and close a huge number of times.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
SteveB wrote:

Hi, Some ovens have two interlock switches in series. If they don't make and break in proper order oven won't work. Our last Panasonic oven was like that.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.