Im sitting here looking at my old 1970s ugly and delapitaded kitchen
cabiets. Im thinking to myself "How hard can it be to replce"? With
the exception of the long sink/dishwasher run with plumbing and a
tricker couter top (L-shaped), the rest of the kitchen seems basic:
level, shim secure to studs. Am I missing somethign? ;^)
Im sure I am. What are the most common mistakes made by DIYers? I
figure even if I mess up somewhere, its still WAY better whats there
Todd in Cincinnati
On that note: we had considered new doors. When ordering new doors,
and you want a more modern light wood style, and your orignals are
dark 1970s cabinets - what are your options?
email@example.com (Chris Lewis) wrote in message
(Todd W. Roat)
before you get new doors. ask around for someone who builds cabinets. see the
price difference. we were in the
same boat. a friend recommended this guy. we have around 20 cabinets beside the
dw. it is going to cost 8,000.
that is for birch ply and poplar case, and white oak fronts. also includes
Are you planning on staying with wood grain? If not, just paint the
exposed surfaces. If you are, you can veneer the exposed faces and stain
to match. Paint the insides if they're too dark.
Some vendors specialize in refurbishments, and offer "kits" containing doors
and face frame refacing materials.
It's simply a matter of what you can afford, and deciding on an appropriate
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Quite a few options, depending on whether your cabs are real wood all
the way thru or wood veneer. If it's real wood, you're in luck because
what you're looking at isn't how the wood looked when the tree got cut
down. The cabinetry would just need to be stripped and refinished to
whatever state close to or removed from the natural tone you want. In
fact, when refinishing, there's nothing that says the doors have to
perfectly match the countertops and/or cabinetry. Having nicely
contrasting cabs and doors with some killer modern-looking hardware can
be pretty zesty eye candy in addition to reducing the cash cost.
If they're veneer, there are companies out there that can remove the old
veneer and replace it with whatever wood look you want.
Good answer! Hope I didnt offend anyone with that perception. I know
it will be hard, I think waht I meant to say is "isnt it
firstname.lastname@example.org (HA HA Budys Here) wrote in message
(Todd W. Roat)
It ain't super-easy, but it ain't brain surgery either. Take your time,
take your time, take your time....that's all the advice you need to make a
good job of it. A 2nd pair of hands is a big help, but it can be done by
one person. Oh, and be sure and take your time...measure, level, shim and
The most common mistake is insufficient detail in planning. It helps to
have an experienced kitchen designer review your plan, down to the moulding
details and the types of pulls (handles). Then find an experienced
finishing kitchen installer to carefully review the plan, too. Otherwise,
even when you think that you've covered everything, you'll find that there's
something that you wish you would have done differently.
Design: If you design a stack of drawers on an inside corner of your
layout, include a 1" filler - so the drawers will clear the hardware on
the adjacent run of cabinets.
Installation: Start at the highest point on the floor - easy to shim up,
but hard to grind off a cabinet to lower it. Pencil a level reference
line on the wall. Use a framing square to plumb down to any cutouts
needed (pipes, electrical, etc.)Mark the reference line so you can
transfer the measurements to the cabinet to be cut.
For the wall cabinets, start with the corner cabinet if you are using
one. Shim out to account for the worst place the wall bows into the
Use clamps while screwing adjacent cabinets together.
If cases are workable and you decide new doors sanding the cases will
get back to clear wood. As it has been sealed about all you can do is
clearcoat or maybe a gel stain then clear coat. Do you know what the
wood will look like after sanding? I sanded cases without plastic
barrier for doors so had sanding dust in back corner of closet in far
corner of house 6 months after the work.
On 1 Mar 2004 16:43:24 -0800, email@example.com (Todd W. Roat) wrote:
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